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The best way to Pick the Best Nikon DSLR for Your Needs

Added: Wednesday, September 14th 2016 at 1:15pm by HamannHartvig1
 
 
 

Selecting a new DSLR can be extremely mind-boggling, particularly when you’re a first time buyer.
Not only do you need to decide between brands, but then you must decide between versions, lenses, and accessories – all of which can lead to a daunting experience.
That being said, the goal of this post is to help make that decision a little bit simpler.
Why Nikon?
I’ve been shooting Nikon since I got into DSLR photography. When I purchased my first camera (a D5000), the decision was a relatively straightforward one: my father had some Nikon lenses and I didn’t have much cash!
Now several years after I’m as happy with that conclusion as ever. Nikon’s consistent lens mount size over the years enables you to use lenses going back to the 70s and 80s on many of Nikon’s latest DSLR bodies – meaning you can get quality used glass, at a relatively inexpensive price.
That’s a conversation for another day, nevertheless.
The bottom line is, you’re going to get a fantastic camera with a fantastic array of lenses with Canon or Nikon. You’ll be around them frequently, and if you have friends or family that shoot one or the other, that’s a good enough reason for me to pick either brand.
But since I shoot Nikon, today’s post is about how to choose the best Nikon camera for you!
Get Past the Hype: Things that Don’t Matter
At the time of this writing Nikon has 4 cameras that you may be deciding between: The D3200, D7100, D90 or D5200. These are the most updated models, and in some cases you may be considering one that’s a generation elderly in order to save money – we’ll talk about that.
Nevertheless before we start going into the person versions, I’d preferably start out by listing a couple things that you simply should certainly stop paying attention to – by doing thus, you’ll make your decision a lot simpler.
Megapixels
Odds are if you haven’t bought a camera in some time, the very first thing you look at when choosing the camera is the megapixel count.
Stop. Please.
These days any new camera will have more than enough megapixels for what you need. Even one on the lower range that has 10-12 will have enough detail for you to blow up your images to poster size with no important problems, and seriously, how often are you doing that?
It may be pleasant to have the flexibility, but once you reach 24 megapixels the files sizes arehuge. On my D7100, I seldom, if ever, shoot at the maximum quality degree, only because it just isn’t practical.
Complete Frame Vs. Cropped Frame
New to photography? Afterward you don’t even look at a full frame sensor. In other words, for a Nikon camera you can instantly stop paying attention to the D600, D800, or D4.
Why?
They’re big. They’re not cheap. And unless you’re a professional shot, they’ll be overkill for what you’re looking for.
So save your cash for some new lenses and quit thinking about those altogether.

You should be aware of that Nikon’s most affordable DSLR the D3200 has image quality that in most shooting scenarios will be close to as good as that on their most high-priced camera, the D4 to help set your mind at ease even more. Most of what you’re getting with cameras that are high-priced is more options, on camera controls, and other things professionals desire and you likely don’t.
Video
This may matter for a select few of you, but for most of you, it should be a non issue.
Bottom line, have you ever actually shot video on a DSLR? Most beginners haven’t. It’s not easy.
The sound is terrible, the auto-focus doesn’t operate in an usable manner, and it’s nothing like using a camcorder or your telephone.
If you need an excellent camera that does video, check out a pocket camera like the Canon S110 – which shoots outstanding video and is easy to use.
Knowing what you have some extra tools and ’re doing a DSLR can be a great way to break into a more professional video set up. But if all you need to do is film your kids, you’d be best looking elsewhere.
Does that all make sense? Great, glad we’ve got that cleared up. Now, let’s get you a camera!
Finding the Best Camera for Your Needs
I’m going to look at the different type of users of Nikon cameras and assist you to locate a camera based on what you identify with the most, instead of regurgitate all the technical specs of each camera for you.
Finest Picture Quality at the Cheapest Price Possible?
As I mentioned earlier, in good lighting, for most applications, the quality from an entry level DSLR will rival that of their more expensive counterparts. So if all you really want is good image quality and aren’t desiring to break the bank, then pick up the Nikon D3200.
You can probably find the older D3100 that is still a fantastic camera, or refurbished models if you’re really worried about cost. You’re sacrificing some build quality from the higher end cameras, if you go with that, and the screen is a reduced resolution than the newer version.
Don’t get the D3000, there was nothing very remarkable about it.
Seasoned DSLR User Wanting to Upgrade, Without Costing Too Much?
Let’s face it, price is an issue for most of us. Thus let’s say you’re prepared to go past your D3100 or D5000 you’ve had for a couple years, to something more representative of your experience level. You’ve got a couple of lenses, but still don’t want to overspend.
Consider a D7000. The image quality will be comparable to the D7100, and many of the updates that were made will be trifling to the typical user, although it’s not the hottest camera on the block.
I’ve seen body only D7000 going for as low as $649, which is nearly half the price of a new D7100.
The D7000 is a big step up in relation to features and build quality from any of the cameras in the 5000 or 3000 line, thus don’t shy away from this only because it’s a couple years old.
It ’s also worth noting that while it’s 5 years old, the D90 is widely available and is a great camera for the cost. It lacks some of the features of the D7000 line that is newer, but is a fantastic step up from Nikon’s entry level cameras in terms of controls.
Starting HDR Photographer?
You can do HDR with any camera that enables you to set manual controls, nevertheless if you’re serious about it, you’re going to want something that has bracketing assembled in.
This means your camera can automatically shoot 3 pictures at varying exposures, typically one at normal exposure, then one one over exposed, and eventually underexposed.
After that you can use HDR software to create one picture that is totally exposed.
The D3200 doesn’t do bracketing, so for the beginning HDR photographer you’ll if cash is more of an issue a D5100 or need to pick up a D5200. A few years ago I learned HDR on my D5000 while and https://article.wn.com/view/2016/09/13/Considerable_Points_To_Remember_Before_Buying_Your_First_DSL/ was a great intro camera. It had a menu system that I was used to with a point and shoot, but a customizable function button that let me easily turn on bracketing.
Seasoned HDR Photographer?
If you’re a more seasoned HDR photographer, then you definitely should just pick up the D7100.
There are a couple key characteristics that make this a better camera for HDR.
You can shoot 5 photo mounts. As you get better at HDR, you’ll learn that 3 mounts regularly isn’t enough to get the range of light you'll need. The D7100 makes it easy to add two more pictures.
In addition, it shoots at up to 7 frames per second, so if you’re trying to take mounts on the fly and don’t have a tripod – this will get you much better results (although you should still use a tripod).
The plethora of on customization abilities and camera controls will make setting up pictures easier and suits itself to a more experienced photographer.
Worth noting that the D7000 just does 3 exposure mounts, thus in this instance I believe it’s worth checking out the D7100.
Updating from Shoot and Point to first DSLR?
If you ’ve been using a point and shoot at your whole life, upgrading to a DSLR can be a bit of a daunting job. Don’t worry though, it doesn’t need to be!
The best part about the D3200 for beginners is that it’s really menu. The camera can do much of what it’s bigger siblings can, but much of it's still in easy to navigate menus like in your point and shoot. There a question button that'll clarify what distinct characteristics of the camera do if you’re uncertain.
Then the D5200 is worth taking a look at if you’re wanting to have a little more control, but still keep the familiarity of a menu based camera. It will undoubtedly give you more room to grow than the D3200.
Have Lots Of Nikon Lenses from Your Movie Days 20 Years Ago?
For instance my aunt has an old 50mm f/1.2 that I’ve been trying to obtain on “long duration loan” for awhile now. This lens wouldn’t have metered on either my old D5000or D90. With D7100 or the D7000 nevertheless, just about any lens from 1977 or newer will both meter and autofocus.
So if you've got plenty of old lenses, don’t sell them away just yet, you may only need a brand new camera body.
Need Professional Characteristics, but On a Budget?
Here you have a couple options. You might be tempted to snag D300 that was used for less than the cost of some of the newer cameras. On the surface this appears like a great idea. You’re getting unbelievable build quality, more manual features, and a more affordable cost – but I’d think about doing this.
The D300 is an old camera. Many advancements in camera tech have been made, and you’ll get better photographs and many more useable characteristics in a D7100 than one of Nikon’s older cameras.
Stick with the D7100 that is still almost half the cost of they and the most affordable complete frame camera the D600 – ’re essentially the same in terms of features.
Appearing to Do More Serious Video and Photography?
If you’re actually seriously interested in video, I hate to say this, but consider switching to Canon. I’m a Nikon man through and through, and I also do a lot of video. The video quality on D5200 or a D7100 is unbelievable. But there are certain attributes that become a little deal breaker.

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