Christchurch: June 2007

In this issue, the last from our guest correspondent Ma Orihaka, we catch up with Ray on the final leg of his three month New Zealand tour, as he makes a visit to Mount Cook - the tallest mountain in Australasia. And Ma also reports on Ray's trip to the south island's largest city - Christchurch.

In case you missed our last issue, Ma followed Ray as he paid homage to Bert Munro, better known to most people as 'The World's Fastest Indian', in Invercargill. And she went with him on his journey as he meandered through The Catlins, to Dunedin and beyond. You can read it now at: The Worlds Fastest Indian.

The Southern Alps run the length of the West Coast and the tallest peak in the range, at over 12,000 feet is Mount Cook. "I had been saving my visit to Mount Cook until the end of my trip so I could go out on a real high" said Ray, when I spoke to him about it. "If you look at the map of the south island, the mountain appears to be much nearer to the west coast, where I was a few weeks ago - but there is no road access from that side, so I had to wait until I was much closer to Christchurch before I could get there" added our well planned traveller.

Above: "This is going to be great" said Ray, as he talked to me about his visit to the spectacular Mount Cook

Below: Map showing where the mountain is - it looks closer to the West Coast but there is no access by road from there, so Ray had to wait until he was on the eastern side of the island before he could get there

The mountain is ranked as the 37th highest peak in the world, so I was curious to know more about Ray's perspective after his visit there. "As far as Mt. Cook itself is concerned, words don't do it justice and it is one of those places that you just have to see and experience the magnificence for yourself" he said. "Having said that, the opportunity to trek in this sort of scenery, with fresh mountain air to breathe was a divine privilege" added our very happy traveller.

Above: An aerial shot of Mount Cook - the highest peak in the Southern Alps. "It really made me think about taking up mountain climbing" said Ray. "It must be a great feeling to reach the summit - something that is way beyond my ability" he added

The mountain is in the Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park. The park was formally declared in 1953, and in combination with Westland National Park is one of the United Nations World Heritage Parks. The park contains more than 140 peaks standing over 2,000 metres (6,500 feet) and 72 named glaciers, which cover 40% of the park's 700 km² (173,000 acres).

"The settlement of Mount Cook Village (also known as The Hermitage) is a tourist centre and base camp for the mountain. It is 7 kilometres from the end of the Tasman Glacier, 12 kilometres south of Aoraki/Mount Cook's summit" Ray told me.

Above: To reach Mount Cook village, travellers must take Highway 80 which runs north from Twizel alongside the enormous Lake Pukaki, offering spectacular views

Below: The end of the road - "On my way towards the mountains, the road just came to a point where it just stopped and I couldn't go any further - quite a strange experience" said our solo explorer

Above: Mount Cook village - look for the grey buildings to the far right of the picture. This is where Ray stayed for a couple of nights whilst he explored the region

The weather on Ray's arrival was not brilliant, with an overcast sky looming ominously. "Praying for good conditions for tramping has become part of my bedtime routine here, as it is approaching winter in New Zealand" said Ray. "On this occasion, it worked for me, as the following morning, the sun was bursting through the clouds" added a joyful Ray.

Above: "Here comes the Sun" sings our happy traveller, as he sets off on the track towards Mount Cook

Below: The Hooker Valley track from the village weaves through some wonderful terrain and trampers cross two swing briges along the way - this is the first......

Below: .... and this is the second. If you would like to see a short video clip of Ray crossing the bridge, watch The Hooker Valley Track

For readers who are interested in geology, the Southern Alps on the south island are formed by tectonic uplifting and pressure as the Pacific and Australia-Indian plates collide along the island's western coast. The uplifting continues, raising Aoraki/Mount Cook an average of seven millimetres (just over a quarter of an inch) each year.

"Erosive forces are also powerful shapers of the mountains" explained Ray. "The severe weather is due to the mountain's jutting into a trade wind pattern known as the Roaring Forties, which is characterized by powerful winds that run roughly around 45°S latitude, south of both Africa and Australia, so that the Southern Alps are the first obstacle the winds encounter after South America as they blow easterly across the Southern Ocean" added our well informed tramper.

Above: One of the may lakes formed from glacial melt water. "The lumps of ice were huge and the water was absolutely freezing" said Ray. "The water is a murky grey colour because the glacier picks up loads of rocks as it moves and crushes them, which turn to powder and mix into the water" he told me

Ray found out about the climbers who have tried to conquer the mountain over the years. "The first recorded European attempt on the summit of Mount Cook was initially attributed to the Irishman Rev. W. H. Green and two Swiss mountain guides on 2nd March 1882, but it was subsequently established that they were 50 metres short of the true summit" he said. "On 25th December 1894, NewZealanders Tom Fyfe, James (Jack Clarke and George Graham, successfully reachedthesummitvia the Hooker Valley, so it was great for me to be following the initial part of the track they took" he added.

It remains a challenging ascent, with frequent storms and very steep snow and ice climbing to reach the peak. Strictly speaking, it is a triple peak, with the north peak being the highest. A traverse of the three peaks was first accomplished in 1913 by Freda du Faur and guides Peter and Alex Graham. Three years earlier du Faur was the first woman to ascend Aoraki/Mount Cook.

Above: Aoraki/Mount Cook was 10 metres (33 feet) higher until approximately 10 million cubic metres of rock and ice fell off the northern peak on 14th December 1991

Having experienced the mountain, one of the highlights of his three month tour, Ray headed for Christchurch, with one final stop on the way planned at Lake Tekapo. "The lake itself is absolutely stunning and there are some brilliant hikes surrounding it" said Ray. "The unusual, almost opaque turquoise colour of the water is created by sunlight filtering through rock particles, ground by the glaciers at the headwaters and suspended in the water, just like the ice at Franz Josef Glacier" added Ray.

Above: The stunning turquoise water at Lake Tekapo. You can see a tiny stone chapel called the 'Church of the Good Shepherd' located on the shore towards the right of the picture

Below: Close up of the 'Church of the Good Shepherd'. In 1935, it was the first church built in Mackenzie Country. It is arguably one of the most photographed in New Zealand, and features an altar window that frames stunning views of the lake and mountains, making it extremely popular for weddings!

Below :Next door to the church is the 'Sheep Dog Statue' - a brass casting of a collie dog - a tribute to all of the sheepdogs that helped develop the Mackenzie Country

The town of Lake Tekapo was originally a rest stop en route to Mt. Cook. It became a 'hydro-town' in the late 1940's when the canals and dams of the Waitiki River were commissioned. The small town, at one end of the vast lake, has a population of 315 people. One of the best tramps in the area is the 'Mount John Summit Walk'. Ray decided to follow the track and I met him afterwards. "What a great walk - views to die for and a good workout at the same time" was how he described it.

Above: At just over 300 metres in height, it took Ray about an hour to reach the top of Mt John Summit, which provides a fantastic vantage point to look out over the lake, and the tiny town of Lake Tekapo

Below: On the way to Christchurch - the Southern Alps provide a stunning backdrop for quite a few miles, before giving way to the flat area surrounding the city, known as the Canterbury Plains. To see a short video clip, watch Lake Tekapo Views

Christchurch is often described as the most English of New Zealand's cities, a description bolstered by the punts gliding down the picturesque Avon River, an Anglican Cathedral rising above the city's central square and the trams rattling past streets with frightfully British names. "For all its self-consciously inherited charm, Christchurch is also a thoroughly modern Kiwi city" observed Ray. "My research had indentified a few things that were really compelling and it was the perfect place to bring my 12 week trip to a close" he said.

Above: Map showing the city of Christchurch, perched adjacent to the Banks Peninsula on the east coast. It is the south islands largest city

Below: Half close your eyes and you could easily imagine you were in Oxford in England, where the inspiration for the city's name comes from

Taking the tram ride around the city centre provided our traveller with a perfect orientation. "I spent my first couple of days in the city centre, which was quite charming" Ray told me. "There is a thriving arts scene, plenty of good places to eat and it is also the starting point for the famous 'Tranz Alpine' railway which crosses the island from Christchurch in the east, to Greymouth on the west coast, through the mountains - a journey that I set my heart on doing when I arrived" he added.

Above: "The trams in Christchurch are very sweet" said Ray, "but they only cover a small area and are really only there for tourists". The electric trams were introduced in 1905, replacing their horse drawn and steam counterparts and they covered most of the city until their obsolescence in 1954

Below: One of the many examples of the architecture that you would expect to find in English University towns like Oxford and Cambridge - this is the Museum and Arts Centre

Above: Spot the street sign? This is 'New Regent Street' - one of many that has borrowed its name from its English namesake

Below: New Regent Street - a great place to hang out, drink coffee or have a proper shave done by a traditional barber. It is a quaint street, entirely composed of buildings constructed in the 'Spanish Mission' style of architecture

For any traveller visiting a city for the first time, it is always great when they are shown around by someone with local knowledge. "I was very fortunate to meet a lovely lady called Chris, who kindly made time in her busy schedule to show me many of the interesting places in and around the city" said Ray. "She has lived there for many years and took me on a couple of brilliant outings, as well as being fantastic company" he added.

Above: Chris Bogers, of Kiwi/Dutch decendency, lives and works in Christchurch and very kindly agreed to escort our traveller during his stay in the city. "I cannot thank her enough" said Ray. "She is a wonderful soul, and I think we will be friends for a long time to come"

Below: Cathedral Square is the 'soul of the city', in the very heart of Christchurch

One of the city's most interesting places, according to Ray, is the International Antarctic Centre on the outskirts of the city. "I discovered that Christchurch has been used as a launching pad for the south polar region from the earliest days of exploration there - when the International Antarctic Centre was first mooted there was plenty of experience to draw on to make the place as authentic as possible" said Ray. "As part of a working scientific establishment that supports not only New Zealand's Antarctic programmes but also Italy's and the USA's, this is actually a huge enterprise of which visitors only get to see a small part, although it is great fun and very informative".

Was it worth going there? "This is as close as most people will ever get to experiencing truly Antarctic conditions" said Ray. "We were taken through some very life-like and wonderful displays of aspects of life and living conditions as well as terrain and weather" he told me.  

Above: The International Antarctic Centre has twice been judged New Zealand's best attraction - "I loved the simulated storm" said Ray (see below)

Below: The 'Antarctic Storm Chamber' is a specially constructed, sealed room that is like a cross between a film set and a lab (the snow is real), where visitors can get a first hand experience of a -21°C windchill - "We put on protective clothing and shoes and entered the chamber, and within five minutes, sophisticated simulation equipment created the conditions you would experience. It was as if we were there" recalled Ray, "except that in the real Antarctic, it is -83°C - the coldest place on earth, and where you would be dead in 60 seconds if you were caught without the appropriate gear" added our chilled out traveller

The Antarctic centre is also home to a delightful collection of Little Blue penguins. "I had recently watched the movie 'Happy Feet' and in the story, the central character ends up in a place just like this to 'perform' for the public" said Ray. "In England, I have a really good friend who loves Little Blue penguins so much, he actually named his business after them" he chuckled.

Above: "The Little Blue penguins are charming" said Ray. If you would like to see a short video clip, watch the Little Blue Penguins

Below: The real Antarctica - "Visiting the centre in Christchurch has really wet my appetite for a trip there" said Ray as he made his way out

One thing that was quite different for Ray in Christchurch, when compared with the many other places he stayed whilst touring the country, was finding accommodation with some truly great company to hang out with in the evenings. "I am not sure why, but I just seemed to meet such amazing, kind people here" recalled Ray.

"My hostel was run by a Swiss chap called Markus and there were only three of us staying there - me and a wonderful French couple. On many evenings, they invited me to join them for supper and sit and talk about life, the Universe and everything" said Ray. "In many other places I had stayed, people were not as willing to engage and kept themselves to themselves - the evenings can be terribly long and boring sometimes. Gwen and Sylvia were a real blessing for me" he added.

Above: Ray was very lucky to end up staying with Gwen (left) and Sylvia (right) at the Dreamland Hostel, which is run by Markus (centre). Ray is hoping to see the lovely French couple again during a forthcoming trip to the Caribbean, where they live and work on the island of St. Barts

With time rapidly running out before Ray was due to fly back to Sydney, there was just one 'must do' thing left. "I wanted to take the Tranz Alpine train" said Ray, "which is a passenger train service that is often said to be one of the world's great train journeys, for the amazing scenery through which it passes" Ray told me.

Above: The Tranz Alpine, hauled by two DC class locomotives, skirting the Waimakariri River. Two engines are required to haul the train through the steep mountain passes in particular parts of the journey

Below: The train runs between Greymouth on the west coast and Christchurch on the east coast. Arthurs Pass (circled) is the highest altitude town in New Zealand. The journey is 223 kilometres one-way, taking about four and a half hours. In total, there are 19 tunnels and 4 viaducts

Ray talked to me about the train journey on his arrival in Greymouth. "After leaving Christchurch, the train went through the Canterbury Plains. "Having seen most of New Zealand, this was the place where I got the best picture of the climb from sea to mountains" said our intrepid explorer. "Once past Canterbury, we ran alongside the Waimakariri River, through the Southern Alps past the spectacular Waimakariri River gorge, and then into the 8.5 kilometre Otira Tunnel,which climbs 250 metres in height from one endofthetunnel to the other" said our well informed passenger.

Above: Inside one of the carriages - the new Tranz Alpine train was introduced in November 1987, to replace the conventional express trains. Accompanying this new look train was a new livery and rebranding

Below: And this is why people take this particular train - the chance to pass through some of the most spectacular mountain scenery New Zealand has to offer, in total comfort and without any distractions

Below: The train makes a stop at Arthurs Pass - New Zealand's highest altitude town (see map above)

Above and below: The return journey from Greymouth to Christchurch - "It was getting dark as I was going back and the sunset was quite unforgettable" said Ray, who tried to capture it on film for The Daily Explorer

With the completion of the railway journey, like all good things, Ray's tour of New Zealand had come to an end and it was time to get ready for his departure. "I have had an absolutely brilliant time here" Ray told me. "In 12 weeks, I have driven just over 11,000 kilometres and covered just about every inch of the place, and feel really satisfied that I have got to know this country intimately" he told me. "I have done skydives, bungy's, trekked till my feet were sore and made some brilliant friends. I am now returning to Sydney for a short time, where I will do some research and decide where to head next" said our traveller. "I also want to thank you Ma, for creating these last few editions of The Daily Explorer in New Zealand - you have done a fantastic job for everyone who reads it on the web!"

Above: On his last day in Christchurch, Ray took the gondola to get one last view of the city - "New Zealand is an awesome country and I am so glad I have had the opportunity to do this trip" said Ray as he reflected on the last three months

Below: With over 550 days of travelling under his belt since he left England (in November 2005), Ray sketches out the route he took around the south island of New Zealand for his souvenir box

Editors Note: Once again, Ma has produced an outstanding report for The Daily Explorer, and on behalf of the team, we would like to extend our sincere thanks to her for the contribution she has made during her tenure as a guest correspondent. Ray is now completing his research in Sydney. In the next few weeks, he will be heading for the Carribean island of St Maarten, arriving in the middle of July. He intends to make a brief visit to London en route, so if you would like to get in touch, please send an email to him at thedailyexplorer@gmail.com.

Its All in the Name

This is one of the features that readers of our sister publication, The Daily Lama, have enjoyed. So by popular demand, we have decided to continue with it here. From time to time, we will publish photographs of different places or things that Ray comes across on his travels. If the name of the place or thing in the photograph matches with your name, you are invited to send us an email telling us, and we will include your name in a prize draw to be made at the end of the year, in our final issue of 2007! Here is the picture for this issue:

Above: Spotted by Ray near a beach just outside Christchurch - quite ironic as he told us that on his return to Sydney, he would be staying with friends Matthew and Elizabeth Taylor - we hope its not an omen!

Our next issue of The Daily Explorer will be online in a few weeks time, during August. We will keep you posted!

MOZZIE BYTE

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