Thailand: November 2006

In our latest issue, Ray and Nikki return from Vietnam to briefly re-visit the Kingdom of Thailand. Our cultural correspondent, Po Scard, follows them as they meet old friends, complete their last major trek this year and prepare for Christmas 'down under' in Perth, Australia.

We also announce the winner of our T Shirt of the Year competition and introduce our new resident literary expert, Paige Turner, who makes her debut with her first book review in The Daily Lama.

Flying in to Bangkok at lunchtime, Ray and Nikki were once again back on familiar ground. "Bangkok has become a place that feels a bit like home to us" said Nikki, as I met her coming off the plane at the new Suvarnabuhmi International Airport, opened recently. "We are pleased to be coming back, even though it is only for a few weeks, as we have quite a few things we want to organise before we fly out to Australia in the middle of December" she added.

Above: Map showing Ray and Nikki's route from Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam, to Bangkok, before proceeding further north for a return visit to Chiang Mai

Ray was also delighted to be back. "Some of our readers may remember that we celebrated our birthdays there in August" said Ray. "We have had such a lovely time here on previous visits and it holds a special place in our affections as travellers, although we wouldn't want to live here" he added. "Although this time, we are only making a very short stop to pick up one of our bags, which we put into storage, before we go up to Chiang Mai" explained Ray.

Above: "Its good to be back" thinks Nikki, as her and Ray, complete with bag, take the very familiar 53 bus to their guesthouse in the Banglampu area of Bangkok

Leaving Bangkok on the overnight train for Chiang Mai, our two travellers headed for the well known and much loved "Soi 9" area inside the walls of the old city. "Because we have spent so much time in Chiang Mai, we now have our own list of favourite guesthouses" said Ray. "Soi 9 is one particular spot that is great for vegetarian food and Internet connections, so we thought we would go back there" he explained. "We chose to stay at "Alley Nine", a new guesthouse which was under construction when we left in June" he added.

Above: The "Alley Nine" guesthouse provided a perfect place for Ray and Nikki to stay whilst in Chiang Mai, and is right in the centre of their favourite "Soi 9" area. "Torn and Poom, who run the place are really charming and made us feel very at home" said Ray

Katy Holford, a friend who Ray and Nikki met whilst in Pai (in northern Thailand), had been in touch ahead of their arrival. "My friend Sara is going to be in Chiang Mai at the same time as you and would like to hook up with some good people" said the email that Katy sent them. "Here are her contact details" she wrote.

The next morning, Nikki turned to Ray and said "Let's do what Katy suggested and call Sara after breakfast". It was at this point that an interesting twist of fate took place. "Ray and I met a girl having breakfast at the next table and started chatting" said Nikki. "We were getting on really well and after about an hour of sharing travel stories, I started to realise that she might be Katy's friend, Sara - so I checked with her, and she was!" recalled a stunned Nikki. They had unwittingly bumped into her without any contact at all. "It's always amazing when that happens" remarked Ray.

Above: The lovely Sara, who Ray and Nikki met in Grace restaurant whilst having breakfast, and who was great company for the next few days

Getting together with the small community of friends that Ray and Nikki made during their time at Chiang Mai University earlier this year was also high on their list of priorities. "Erin and Sue, fellow TEFL graduates and Karla, our TEFL teacher, had been keeping in touch with us whilst we travelled around Cambodia and Vietnam. Karla kindly agreed to store a bag for us too" said Nikki. "We could not wait to see them all to catch up with their news" said Ray. "We planned a re-union supper at our favourite vegetarian restaurant" he told me.

Above: The best "English Teachers" club in Chiang Mai! Ray and Nikki meet up with their friends from the University. From left to right, Sue (from Canada), Ray, Nikki, Erin (from the USA), Sara (from the UK) and Karla (from Canada)

Our two travellers could not have chosen a more perfect time to re-visit Chiang Mai. Their stay co-incided with one of Thailand's most spectacular festivals, called 'Loy Kratong'. On three nights in November, Thai people all over the country throng to the rivers and the sea, to give thanks to the Goddess of Water. People celebrate this event by making a wish and launching small boats. "Daily Lama readers may remember that we took part in last year's festival while we were in Koh Samui" said Nikki. "Then, we all took tiny boats made of banana leaves, with a candle and incense (which you light), and sent them out to sea with our 'wishes' for the year ahead" she recalled.

Above: The Loy Kratong festival is popular all over Thailand and especially in Chiang Mai. This is the river where everyone comes to send their 'wishes', via small boats or aerial paper lanterns

Below: "So Nikki, what's it like travelling with Ray?" asks a curious Karla, as Sara looks on and Sue (who is an excellent photgrapher) lines up the camera for a snap

"In Chiang Mai, people also make large paper lanterns that float up into the air by candle power, with a backcloth of the biggest firework display you will ever see" Ray told me. "For most of the evening, the night sky is filled with hundreds of these burning lanterns being carried on the wind and rising higher and higher until they burn out - it is a really spectacular sight" he added.

Above: This family prepares to launch a huge, candle powered paper lantern to carry their 'wishes' into the year ahead.... (photograph courtesy of Sue Pizarro)

Below: Off she goes! The huge lantern ascends rapidly, to be carried miles away into the night sky by the wind, and bring this particular family good fortune in the coming months (photograph courtesy of Sue Pizarro)

Below: Ray and Nikki watch the lanterns lifting off and wonder, after a year on the road, what's in store for them in the coming year (photograph courtesy of Sue Pizarro)

Having caught up with their old and dear friends, Ray and Nikki made their way to a region in the far north of Thailand, called Mae Hong Son. "When we were in this part of the world earlier this year, we did some trekking in Pai, but never had time to visit Mae Hong Son, so we always knew we would come back at some point to trek in the hills here" Nikki told me. "We decided to fly in and out, to maximise our trekking time, as the bus journey form Chiang Mai takes several hours each way and we only had two and a half days" said Ray.

Above: Map showing the location of Mae Hong Son, in the far northern, mountaineous region of Thailand

Below: Ray and Nikki decided to fly in and out on Nok Air, one of Thailand's growing number of budget airlines, who operate a three times a day, 35 minute service from Chiang Mai

Mae Hong Son is a picturesque, mountaineous province bordering Myanmar (Burma) to the west and the north, some 275 kilometres from Chiang Mai. It used to be considered the furthest backwater of Thailand. When high-ranking Thai civil servants or military officers mis-behave, they are generally transferred to the proverbial 'inactive post', even to this day. Time was when Mae Hong Son was the most 'inactive' of postings possible, practically a place of exile.

"It is hard to argue that any place you can fly to is remote or isolated, but as our small plane threaded its way through the mountains and onto the equally small runway, practically in the centre of town, we got the definite feeling that we were well off the beaten path" said Ray.

Above: Flying in to Mae Hong Son, Ray and Nikki were treated to some spectacular views of the surrounding region, wetting their appetite for trekking around the hills

Below: The airport is practically in the centre of town (left). The lake in the lower right corner is where Ray and Nikki's guesthouse is located!

With many people looking for more 'adventure' in their travelling, Mae Hong Son's wild rivers and steep forested hills are a big attraction. "We definitely came here for the trekking, knowing it was going to be our last opportunity this year" said Nikki. "When we arrived, we quickly found a guide and made arrangements to start the next day on the most challenging two day trek we could find, with an overnight stay in the mountains" said Ray.

Above: Ray, following their guide Suthone, sets off on the last trek of the year with Nikki - a challenging two day hike up into the mountains. In case you are wondering if the person on the far left is a buddhist monk - you are right!

"In the morning, we set off with Suthone and were joined by a small group of Buddhist monks, who were making a one week pilgrimage to remote caves and temples to meditate" recalled Nikki. "They were all quite young and had never made the treacherous journey before, so our guide offerred to help them too - they followed us most of the way, high up in the mountains" she told me. "It seemed a bit bizarre, especially when they stopped for a cigarette break! - but their presence brought a calmness and serenity to Ray and I, and they gave both of us a Buddha pendant which we really appreciated" she told me. "They also said that we could both meditate in one of the caves they were headed towards" added Nikki.

Above: Trekking is challenging enough, without the long flowing orange robes that monks wear, thinks Ray as he wades knee deep through a river, following one of them

Below: One of the strangest sights that Ray and Nikki have seen whilst trekking, is a Buddhist monk stopping for a fag break!

The trek took Ray and Nikki through some very challenging terrain. "I wouldn't say it was the most difficult trek that we have done" said Nikki, "but it was certainly one with the greatest variety of obstacles" she explained. "We were wading in some rivers up to our waist as we completed the first part of the journey on day one, covering some 12 kilometres from our start point in town, to the village where we were staying the night" she told me.

Above: Nikki stops for a moment as they head towards their camp for the night - a remote mountain village

Below: Their hosts for the evening - Suthone arranged for Ray and Nikki to stay in these villagers home for the night - an authentic experience that greatly excited our intrepid explorers

For our tired climbers, home for the night was in a typical villagers home, in a small community of about ten houses, high up in the hills. "Each of the houses had it's own little collection of livestock, including ours which had a herd of pigs, chickens, dogs and a couple of buffalos" said Ray. "Most of the animals are grown to be sold at the market, or bartered for grain and other materials the villagers need" he told me.

Above: Ray sits on the step of their home for the night and observes just how basic and simple the lifestyle of the people here is

Below: Ray makes friends with one of their hosts buffalos. "I have always had a soft spot for them, ever since my brother earned the nickname 'buffalo' as a young kid many years ago" said Ray

Above: The buffalo suddenly gets jealous as Ray turns his attention to the cute little family of pigs nearby!

While their hosts prepared an evening meal for them, Ray and Nikki went to have a look at the nearby village school. "It was probably one of the prettiest schools I have ever seen, set against the backdrop of the trees, flowers, river and mountains" said Ray. "As we are now both qualified teachers, we had a good look around the classrooms and wondered if and when we might do some teaching ourselves" he added.

Above: This has to be one of the most picturesque and remote schools that Ray and Nikki have ever seen, nestled high up in the mountains amidst this beautiful landscape

Below: This is the closest that Nikki has got to a classroom since gaining her TEFL qualification in Chiang Mai earlier this year!

When they returned, there was a very inviting, traditional Thai meal awaiting them. "Our hosts were so brilliant, they made us feel very welcome and kept on bringing us more and more food until we were completely full" said Ray. "After dinner, we joined the family and our guide in the kitchen, where everyone had gathered around the open flame they use as a cooker to drink some coffee, and later, some rice wine" he added.

Above: Ray is very happy as he and Nikki eat this wonderful Thai meal prepared by their very generous hosts. The mat on the floor behind is their allocated 'sleeping area'

"Our hosts had allocated an area of floor space for us to sleep on and given us plenty of blankets so we would be comfortable" said Nikki. "We were facing the back of their house, which has no wall, so we were able snuggle under our blankets, breathe the cool, fresh mountain air and watch the moon and stars as we drifted off to sleep in this wonderful, remote village home" recalled Nikki.

Above: Ready for bed! Ray prepares to settle down for the night in their very basic, but memorable mountain home for the night

After a surprisingly good nights sleep, Ray and Nikki awoke early to prepare for the second day of their trek. "In the morning, I found myself walking down some rickety wooden steps at the back of the house and having to cross this huge muddy area, where their pigs were foraging around for scraps to eat, in order to reach the makeshift bathroom in the yard" recalled Ray.

Above: Ray reaches the makeshift bathroom across the pigs yard with his essential equipment in tact!

Nikki was very pleased that they had been invited to stay in this particular house. "There was no sense of a show being put on for us, just because we were visitors, which we really liked as it gave us a much more authentic experience" said Nikki. "The lady of the house was charming - she continued her normal routine while we were there and I was able to observe how hard she worked. She was continuously on the go, making food for us, feeding the livestock, washing and cleaning and attending to callers - quite amazing" observed Nikki.

Above: Nikki shares a moment with our lovely hostess as her and Ray prepare to leave, and thanks her for the wonderful hospitality that they both received

Before Ray and Nikki set off, they were joined again by the Buddhist monks who were still on their way and had stopped overnight in the same village. Suthone had a little surprise in store for everyone. "We show you how we make fire using only wood" he said to the group assembled, as he proceeded to cut pieces of bamboo with his porter, while the owner of the house lent a helping hand. "We watched in amazement as they furiously rubbed the wood together in pairs, creating sufficient friction to ignite the material they had prepared and create a flame" said Ray. "Everyone loved it, including our newly formed Buddhist monk friends!" he told me.

Above: Suthone (left) and our host (centre) watch closely as Suthone's porter chops up bamboo strips for our little fire making 'show'

Below: That's it! Suthone blows on the tiny little flame that they have ignited through rubbing the pieces of bamboo together

Above: Suthone's porter is very happy, as he can now go back to puffing on his favourite cigar!

Below: Even our '20 a day' monks loved the impromptu demonstration and took the opportunity to light up once more before they set off across the hills

The journey on day two soon became quite difficult, as the first two hours were uphill and it was getting progressively steeper as time went on. "I didn't notice how hard it was becoming at first, as I was pleasantly distracted by the wonderful song-like calls of the gibbons that live in the forest" said Nikki. "Once I became aware of how steep we were climbing, I started to get tired and was breathing very heavily by the time we reached the highest point of the climb" she added. "Although the gibbons provided some light relief on the way, I was very glad for a rest at the top" said a much relieved Nikki.

Above: Nikki takes a well earned rest at the highest point on day two of their trek, while this lovely dog, who followed them all the way from the village they stayed in, sat with her and rested too! If you would like to see a short video clip of their trek, click here: Mae Hong Son Trek

Returning to Chiang Mai, Ray and Nikki once again decided to leave each other for a few days to do their 'own thing', with Nikki going south to Koh Samui to practise Ashtanga Yoga, and Ray remaining in Chiang Mai.

"I really wanted to undertake some intensive study with Yoga Thailand, a great yoga school with a growing reputation, as I had been there briefly in July and loved the way they teach" said Nikki. "I went for a special four day retreat they had organised, which meant living and practising at their school on the beach - in itself a real treat - in order to develop an Ashtanga practise I could do on my own" she explained. "After travelling for a few months, I really wanted to focus on my yoga and take the opportunity to learn from some great teachers" added a vibrant Nikki.

Above: Map showing the island of Koh Samui, in the southern Gulf of Thailand

Below: When Nikki said to Ray she was going to Koh Samui, she meant the island above, not this trendy boutique in London's West End

For readers who are not familiar with yoga, practising Ashtanga means mastering a series of postures (called Asanas) which require considerable flexibility and energy to achieve, as well as working on breathing and calming the mind. "Yoga Thailand is located on my favourite part of the island, at Bang Por, and is a beautiful unspoilt beach that has not yet been affected by the excessive, rapid development in other parts of Samui" Nikki told me.

Above: It's easy to see why Nikki was so happy to return to Bang Por beach - it is absolutely beautiful

During the four day retreat, Nikki realised that she was going to need somewhere nearby to stay when it came to an end, as she wanted to continue with her own practise at Yoga Thailand every morning. "I really wasn't sure how I was going to find somewhere on the beach, which are the best places, but can be expensive to rent" Nikki told me.

"Then one day, I was introduced by my friend Ali, who lives on Bang Por beach, to a fabulous, friendly lady called Susie, who also lives just near her" recalled Nikki. "Her home is about a ten minute walk from the school and we got on instantly - it turned out that she and her partner, James, were just about to leave for Malaysia for a few days and she was looking for someone to look after the house, and 'Diggy', their adopted dog - it was perfect!" said an amazed Nikki. "The Universe has a great habit of taking care of you when you really need something" she said.

Above: Susie and Diggy - who are both delightful residents on the beach at Bang Por - Nikki could not have bumped into them at a more perfect time

Below: Susie's partner, James is also a wonderful chap, with an avid interest in computers and marine fishes

Looking after Diggy meant that Nikki got plenty of exercise, in addition to the daily yoga. "He took to me straight away and would not leave my side wherever I went" said Nikki. "Susie had told me to make myself at home and I don't think she realised how excited this had made me, principally because her house had a kitchen, and I had not been able to use one for months!" she said. "I spent most of my time in there, blending soups and even baking some cookies - I was able to prepare fresh, raw, healthy food for myself the way I like it, which was not easy for me to do when I was constantly on the move" said a very well fed and fit Nikki.

Above: Whilst not in Susie's kitchen, Nikki made time to exercise on the beach

Below: Diggy gets very jealous as a neighbours dog makes a move on Nikki, interrupting her exercise routine

As well as eating good food, Nikki wanted to hang out with her good friends on the island. "I hooked up with Lozza, who runs the Yoga Cafe in Bho Put, where I worked as a volunteer before I met Ray" she told me. "And Ali, who lives near Susie on the beach, who I had met on a previous visit, and who really looked after me while I was here" said a very grateful Nikki. "Last but not least, I made a great new friend at Yoga Thailand, called Andrea and we really enjoyed practising yoga and socialising together" added Nikki.

Above and below: Nikki and Andrea were kindred spirits after they met at Yoga Thailand and maintained their mental discipline throughout their sessions, except on the odd occasion (below)!

Meanwhile, Ray was 'chilling out' in Chiang Mai. "Unlike Nikki, I am not a big yoga fan so had not wanted to join her" he told me. "We made plans to meet in Samui after her yoga retreat was over, which meant I had just over a week on my own, and although I love Nikki dearly, I relished the opportunity to have some time alone" Ray told me. "I love reading the Bangkok Post every day over a leisurely breakfast, pottering around on my computer, surfing the Internet for hours at a time and watching movies and football - all things I could do to excess for a few days" explained Ray. "So I completely indulged myself while Nikki was away and although I enjoyed it very much, it was lovely to see her again when I flew down to Samui a few days later" he added.

Above and below: While he was on his own, Ray had plenty of time to indulge himself in some small pleasures that have become rare for him on the road, such as watching Chelsea play, live on TV (above) and going to the cinema - he went to see the new James Bond movie (below) the day after it was released, with Karla, Sue and Erin. "It was really great!" he told me. If you are thinking of going to see it, visit the wikipedia web site for more information.

As soon as Ray arrived, he made his way to join Nikki, who was still looking after James and Susie's house and dog on Bang Por beach. "I could not believe the weather" said Ray, as he touched down. "This time last year, it was the middle of the wet season and Nikki and I witnessed torrential non-stop rain and flooding, so we expected the same again this year" he explained. "Much to my surprise, the island was basking in glorious sunshine" said a very happy Ray.

The day after Ray's arrival, James and Susie returned home from their trip. Knowing that our two travellers would need another place to stay, the ever helpful Ali once more stepped in and arranged for them to use an empty house a few metres along the beach. "It was so great that Ali was there - I don't know what we would have done without her" said a very grateful Nikki.

Above: Having given James and Susie their house and dog back, Nikki continued with her yoga practise a few metres along the beach - which inspired James to try it out himself!

Below: Ray gets set up on the wireless network at the 'James & Susie Internet Cafe' - the terrace of their house facing the beach!

Ray had agreed a deadline with one of my colleagues, Gran D. Tour, to give her some pictures and information for a special feature she was writing about their travels in Vietnam, and he was a little bit behind with it. "I was so pleased to find James" said Ray. "As he is very technical and works with computers, he was practically the only person in that part of the island with a robust and fast Internet connection at home, and he generously let me use it for a couple of days so I could send everything to Gran" explained Ray.

Whilst James provided Internet support, Susie made an equally superb 'catering manager' and supplied a constant stream of tasty refreshments. "I cannot thank them enough" said Ray. "I would have been in serious trouble with Gran if they had not helped me - they are two of the nicest people we have met on our travels and I hope we remain friends with them for a long time" he added.

Above: Ray takes a break for a moment from sending photo's to the Daily Lama, while Susie checks her emails at the 'James & Susie Internet Cafe'

Below: James explains that surfing does not just have to be in cyberspace in Bang Por, as he invites Nikki to join him in the ocean for some snorkelling and swimming, in search of his favourite "sucker" fish!

Knowing that they were departing for Australia in a couple of weeks, Ray and Nikki had agreed to send us all the photographs we need to write the remaining issues between now and Christmas. "When we are preparing information for the team at The Daily Lama, we work in a kind of relay, with Nikki and I regularly liaising with each other to make sure we are both happy with the pictures we select from the huge pile of shots we take" explained Ray. "And we have to supply Po and his colleagues with names, dates, times and details of all the places we visit, so we are constantly collating information for them" added Nikki.

Above: "Quiet Nikki" says Susie. "I don't think we should disturb Ray while he is getting all the stuff ready for The Daily Lama - lets put the kettle on!"

Below: "We can't send Gran those pictures, can we? - The Daily Lama will never publish them" says a shocked Nikki, as Susie looks on in disbelief

Despite the pressing deadlines, Ray and Nikki still had plenty of time for fun, egged on by Susie. "She is fun with a capital F" said Ray. "If there was a Queen of Fun, it would be Susie wearing the crown!" he quipped. "She has this wonderful, roguish cheekiness which is really infectious and we both adore her" added Nikki.

Susie loves creative photography and at one point, she spotted a strange looking caterpillar on the terrace. "We must get some pictures of the little darling" she said, as she asked Ray to hold it still for the camera. "I could swear the little thing was trying to jump off the piece of paper I was holding, and on to me" said a slightly nervous Ray.

Above: "Is it poisonous?" asks Ray, as he tries to make sure the caterpillar stays in the required 'pose' on the sheet of paper

Below: "Finished at last!" Ray takes a well earned break after sending everything to the Daily Lama that we requested from him and Nikki

After a few days on the beach at Bang Por, Ray and Nikki were ready to leave, to begin their seven day fast and de-tox at the world famous Spa Samui, which my colleague, Me So Fit, will be bringing you full coverage of in our next issue. "We really wanted to have a 'last evening' get together for the lovely friends and neighbours we met during our stay" explained Nikki. "We bought everything we needed at our local Tesco store in Nathon and prepared our little beach house for our guests" she said, with great excitement. "We had a lovely evening and a great time in Bang Por, and will definitely be returning at some point" added Ray.

Above: Ray and Nikki, with their new fish loving friend and technical guru, James on the little balcony outside their beach house

Below: Ali (left), who helped them find their accommodation, with partner Justin (centre) and Ray

Above: Ray and Nikki reflect on what a great time they have had in Bang Por amongst good friends, enjoying the sea and eating lovely food .....

Below: ...... until their friends remind them that they are about to enter the Spa Samui for a seven day fast and detox!

Editors Note: Great stuff, Po! Thanks for the fantastic update about Ray and Nikki's return to Thailand. In the next issue of The Daily Lama, we will be bringing you a special report about Ray and Nikki's seven day de-tox and fast at The Spa Samui. Due to our continued coverage of them both in The Daily Lama, they are fast becoming minor celebrities on Samui, so we have negotiated a one-off tie up with the local version of "Hello!" magazine to share our coverage. Definitely not an issue to be missed!

Below: Sneak preview of the cover of the next issue of Samui's "Hello!" magazine, with Ray and Nikki at the bottom

Book Review

During their travels, Ray and Nikki have become avid book fans. Some of our readers expressed an interest in finding out which books they have been reading, so we have recruited our own resident literary expert, Paige Turner, to review some of Ray and Nikki's favourites.

Above: A big welcome to the newest member of our team - Paige Turner

Her first review is below. Please let us know what you think and send us any recommendations about good stuff you are reading, so we can pass them on to Ray and Nikki.

Welcome to my first review for the Daily Lama. When people say "you have got to read this book - you'll love it", I often wonder what they base that love on. So when I recommend a book I love, it is usually because it inspires me, makes me laugh and makes me think. Most of all, I love it when an author manages to capture the essence of this wonderful, delicate, and often confusing journey called 'Life'.

Eat Pray Love by Elizabeth Gilbert (above right);  Bloomsbury 2006 ISBN 0-7475-8288-2

Mark Twain wrote "Twenty years from now, you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do, than by the ones that you did. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbour. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore, dream, discover". And this is exactly what Elizabeth Gilbert does in her autobiography "Eat Pray Love". At thirty-one, she finds herself sobbing on the bathroom floor and realises she no longer wants to be married and cannot live up to everyone else's expectation that she should have children. So three years later with a divorce and turbulent affair behind her, she travels to Italy, India and Indonesia.

However, this is no ordinary travelogue; Gilbert's frank and entertaining journey of a woman's search for self acceptance and happiness is eloquent, funny and warm. In Italy, she begins to explore a new found freedom that fills her with both excitement and dread, as for the first time he faces life alone. But, as she falls in love with the beauty and passion of the Italian language, the glorious food and the people, she begins to let go of her past.

In India, the ritual and discipline of an Ashram and the constant practise of yoga bring her close to happiness, but she is often plagued by self doubt. It is her stay in the beauty and peace of Bali that finally brings the balance she's been searching for, as her friendship with Ketut, an ageless medicine man, puts her on a new path to enlightenment.

This isn't a dippy hippy journey for the travelling Bridget Jones but a testament to the only obligation we all have in life; as Gilbert so astutely puts it - 'to live this life liberated from the farce of pretending to be anyone other than myself'. Gilbert's carefully crafted portrayal of the people she meets and ability to evoke the atmosphere of the countries she visits make this wonderful take on the strength of the human spirit a must for anyone who has travelled in search of peace, or for anyone who simply wants a really good read.

Nikki says: "I absolutely loved this book! Paige Turner has recommended a corker. In Italy, Gilbert's mouth-watering descriptions of the cuisine had me practically salivating and wishing my noodle soup would transform in to Penne a la Carbonara. In India, her incredible account of life in an Ashram had me smiling with recognition at her struggle to meditate, remembering my own similar experiences at the Suan Mokkh Buddhist retreat earlier this year. In Bali, I was constantly touched by her descriptions of the people who shaped her life there and found myself falling in love with each and every one of them. I finished this book with a sense that Elizabeth Gilbert is truly living the  life she loves, and a realisation that I am too!

"T Shirt of the Year" Competition - the Winner!

All of your votes are now in and have been counted. We would like to express our sincere thanks to everyone who sent us their entry. The most popular T Shirt that Ray has been wearing this year, as voted by you, the readers of The Daily Lama is.......

Above: This green "Live Your Life" T Shirt is the favourite amongst Daily Lama readers!

And the lucky winner of our prize draw, from the readers who voted for the shirt above, is Nigel Shilton, from London, England. He will be receiving our super "mystery" prize - the first ever Daily Lama T Shirt! We hope to have a picture of Nigel wearing his new shirt in a future issue.

Above: Congratulations to Nigel Shilton (left), the first person to wear a Daily Lama T Shirt with our new logo (right)

Look out for the next issue of The Daily Lama, online in a few days, with a special report about Ray and Nikki's seven day de-tox and fast at The Spa Samui.

AMBER SOLAIRE & MOZZIE BYTE

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