Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam: September 2006

In our last issue, Cambodia Uncovered Part 2, Po Scard (above) followed Ray and Nikki on their journey through Cambodia. In this issue, with assistance from Des Rezz and Hi Plo Tein, we pick up their trail as they leave Cambodia and cross the border into Vietnam for a visit to Ho Chi Minh City, or Saigon as it was formerly known.

Leaving Phnom Penh in Cambodia on 31st August, Ray and Nikki headed towards the Communist state of Vietnam, with great excitement. "Having been in Thailand, Laos and Cambodia, we were both keen to get to Vietnam and find out more about the country, and how it compares with the other countries we have experienced so far" said Ray.

Above: Vietnam occupies the eastern and southern part of the Indochinese peninsula in South East Asia, with the South China Sea along its entire coast. China is to the north, with Laos and Cambodia to the west. The Mekong River delta lies in the south

In 1954, the Geneva Conference divided Vietnam into two nations, North and South, with a planned unification for 1956. But all North Vietnamese proposals for elections were rejected by the US backed South Vietnamese government. The country did not become unified until much later, in 1976, three years after the Americans withdrew their troops.

Above: Map showing the unified Vietnam of today. Hanoi, the capital, is in the North and Ho Chi Minh City is in the South. The red arrow shows Ray and Nikki's route from Cambodia

Vietnam is one of Sout East Asia's fastest growing economies and has set its sights on becoming a developed nation by 2020. For more information about Vietnam, you can visit the following web sites: The BBC Vietnam Profile or Atlapedia.

The bus journey from Phnom Penh to Ho Chi Minh City took Ray and Nikki about six hours. "It's a great feeling when you are travelling overland, to cross a national border" said Nikki. "We were slightly apprehensive when we reached the border checkpoint, as we were required to hand our passports over to a man on the bus, without any real understanding of what was going to be done with them or how we would get them back" recalled Ray. "However, now that we have done this a few times, we are more comfortable about 'going with the flow' and it all turned out OK" he added.

Above: Nikki at the border between Cambodia and Vietnam, gladly re-united with her passport and visa

In comparison to Laos and Cambodia, Vietnam is relatively large, so careful planning was required to ensure that Ray and Nikki could optimise their time in the country. Our plan was to spend about one or two months, travelling from the south to the north, visiting many of the towns on the coast along the way" explained Nikki. "This made Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) the obvious starting point - we thought it would be a good place to get an orientation to the whole country" she added.

Arriving in HCMC, our travelling pair exchanged their money for Vietnamese Dong, making them both instant millionaires for the second time since they left England, at around forty UK pounds a piece!

Above: Loadsamoney! Ray is a millionaire - again!

Ray and Nikki quickly discovered that the city was renamed in 1976, to honour the man who is widely regarded as the founder of the unified Vietnam, Ho Chi Minh - known affectionately by many as 'Uncle Ho'. Still called Saigon by almost everyone who lives there, it is a modern city by Asian standards. The city's character remains essentially French - with wide boulevards, colonial villas, and a lively cafe society - but also resolutely Asian. Much of the old French colonial city is vanishing beneath the rapidly rising skyline.

Above: 'Uncle Ho', the founder of the Indochina Communist Party and the visionary who gave rise to the creation of modern Vietnam. He died in 1969 before he could see the North and South unified, and his body is preserved in a mausoleum in Hanoi. His face also appears on the banknotes that Ray is holding in the picture earlier. For more information about the life of Ho Chi Minh, you can visit the following web sites: Nhan Dan (Vietnamese Communist Party Press) and Wikipedia, which has a photograph of his preserved body inside the mausoleum

Above: Central Saigon; an urban fusion of French and Asian styles and a city which is modernising rapidly

In their search to find the right accommodation, Ray and Nikki ventured into some older parts of the city. "Walking through District 1, a very old area of town which is popular with travellers, was a fantastic experience and a stark contrast to the clean, wide boulevards of central Saigon" said Ray. "To me, it felt like someone had arrived the day before us and erected a film set of war time Saigon, as if they were going to shoot a movie - with actors, props and sound effects all in place" he recalled. "It was really breathtaking as the noise and the energy of the place bombarded our senses".

Above: "Good Morning Vietnam!" This scene looks like it could have been lifted from a movie

Taking some advice from our very own accommodation expert, Des Rezz, our travelling duo checked out a few of his favourite guesthouses. He explained that in the older parts of Saigon, there is a high premium on space, so many of the guesthouses are tall and thin structures, packed together in small alleyways, like sardines in a tin. The alleys are too small to drive cars through, which usually means they are a bit less noisy.

Above: Des Rezz, who helped Ray and Nikki with some recommendations for good accommodation in the city

Below: Very tall, very thin buildings are a feature of the Saigon guesthouse scene, as Des Rezz explained

Having looked at the places that Des recommended, and rejecting most of them, Ray and Nikki eventually opted to stay in a rather quaint little place called the Tan Mai Phai minihotel, located in none other than 'Mini Hotel Alley' - so called because there are dozens of these strange looking, tall and thin buildings located on both sides of a very narrow passage, just like Des had informed them. "You would probably not get the chance to see this sort of thing anywhere other than here" said Ray. "Many of the guesthouses offer food, so the kitchen is on the ground floor - in some places, you have to walk through it to get in" he mused.

Above: One of the guesthouses recommended by Des Rezz - this one got the 'thumbs down' from Ray and Nikki, fearing the name of the establishment might have reflected the quality of the rooms, not to mention the menu!

Nikki was happy with their final choice of guesthouse, which was going to be their base for the next few days. "If a guesthouse has ten rooms, then it probably has the same number of floors" she explained. "The floor area of the buildings is so small that there is usually one room per floor, and no lifts as the buildings are so old" she told me. "We were lucky to find something on the first floor, which meant that Ray did not have to make several trips up and down the stairs with our heavy backpacks!" said a very considerate Nikki.

Above: The alleyways are so narrow, guests on opposite sides take it in turns to look out of their windows to avoid clashing heads!

Although Des had recommended the Tan Mai Phai, his research had not identified a strange, eery phenomenon which took Ray and Nikki by surprise after they had checked in. "I woke in the middle of the night to a strange, gurgling noise, like the sound of porridge simmering in a pan" said Nikki. "I checked it was not coming from Ray's stomach, thinking that the noodle soup he ate for supper might have been the culprit, but it was not the case" she said.

"Nervously, I made my way to the source of the disturbance - the bathroom - and then all was revealed" recalled a rather amused Nikki. "In the corner of the bathroom, there was a foul smelling, detergent like foam bubbling up through the drainage hole in the floor, and expanding rapidly towards the door" she said, as she laughed. "Apparently, there were some problems with the plumbing system, and although Des tried to negotiate a discount for us, we were unsuccessful and decided to live with it".

Above: The strange, gurgling sound was coming from the bathroom. To see a short film of this weird episode, click here: "Nikki and the Scary Foam"

Having got settled, a consultation with our Daily Lama Food Correspondent, Hi Plo Tein, informed Ray and Nikki about the multitude of food options available. "She told us that the vast number of choices on offer included Vietnamese food, hamburgers, fine French cuisine, or black caviar at a Russian restaurant and many others to boot" said Ray. "In the end, we decided that we would pay a visit to a classic, very cheap 'hole in the wall' restaurant that whips up tasty bowls of Pho (pronounced 'far'), which is beef noodle soup" he added.

Above: When it comes to finding good food, Hi Plo Tein is one of the most well informed people around

Below: So Pho, so good - "When Bill Clinton made an official visit to HCMC in 2000, he slurped down a bowl of Pho himself, so I thought if it's good enough for him, it was defintely good enough for me, and excellent value at 30 English pence a bowl" said a very full Ray!

Although developers are rapidly investing huge amounts of money to boost the economy and shake off the past, the appeal of the city still lies in its Asian heritage, and Ray and Nikki were keen to take a walking tour through many of its old markets to 'breathe in' the real Vietnamese culture.

"In its teeming food markets, there are tropical fruits, King Cobras, barbecued dogs, and a hundred other such items for sale" said Ray. "The pavements are crammed with noodle stands, cafes, and vendors selling everything from baguettes to bottled snake whiskey" he informed me.

Above: Ray and Nikki 'breathe in' the culture and atmosphere in Saigons many street markets

As I mentioned earlier, the older parts of the city contain some stunning architecture. One example is the Central Post Office. "I had to find a Post Office to send a letter to my mum and was directed there" Nikki told me. "We did not realise until we found it, that it was such a beautiful building" she added. "On the wall inside the vast hall of this classic French colonial building, is a huge map of old Indochina and they still have the old fashioned, oak telephone booths for people who want to make operator assisted, International calls" she said.

Above: Nikki arrives, with letter in hand, at the Central Post Office - a classic French colonial building completed in 1891

Below: Ho Chi Minh's picture adorns the stunning interior - it is hard to believe the building is actually a fully functioning workplace, as it looks more like a museum

Below: The huge map of old Indochina on the wall above the old fashioned, oak telephone booths that are still heavily used by the city's residents

Another example of the French influence can be found at The Grand Hotel, close to the Saigon river. "We always try and locate a decent hotel in the area where we are staying that allows day visitors to use their pool, and The Grand Hotel was our target of choice" said Ray. "We went to have a look at the place and were really impressed with its timeless elegance, deciding that we would definitely come back to hang out there before we left the city" he added. "In the reception area was a wonderful oil painting of the hotel when it was first built, and as we stared intently at it, we could really imagine what the Saigon of yesteryear must have been like", Ray told me.

Above: The Grand Hotel, as it is today

Below: The wonderful oil paining in the hotel reception depicts the Saigon of a time gone by

Like many Asian cities, Saigon is dogged by traffic problems, as more and more people want, and can afford, mobility. "We discovered that the roads are often gridlocked with motorbikes, scooters, bicycles, cyclos (pedicabs), buses, and a few cars - for now" said Nikki. "All kinds of people travel by bicycle or motorbike; women in traditional 'ao dais' long gloves, and conical hats; whole families - mother, father and two or three children are often squeezed onto one seat" she added.

Above: No, this is not some kind of major protest rally, but normal everyday life on the very crowded, gridlocked roads of Saigon

Below: Ray and Nikki were shocked to discover that the Vietnamese may be seeking help from London Underground, to alleviate some of their traffic problems. To get to Ho Chi Minh City, take the Piccadilly line to Earls Court, change to the Saigon line and get off 2,879 stops later!

If there is one thing that is better than seeing Saigon in the bright, sunlit day, it is experiencing it at night. "We really liked watching the transition from day to night as we took in the place" said Nikki. "As darkness falls, the traffic is relentless. We chuckled when we saw a couple of chaps on a motorbike carrying a lamp standard, and wondered if it was beacuse they had just bought it, or they were expecting a seriously long delay in the traffic jam" said a highly amused Nikki.

Above: The Vietnamese have adopted some rather unusual strategies to cope with long delays on the roads in Saigon, including bringing their own reading lamps, should the traffic come to a standstill

Both Ray and Nikki loved walking through the city at night. "It is a colourful feast for the eyes, and the sounds of the traffic, the bustling restaurants and bars, and people going about their lives, are an audible treat too" Ray told me. "I started to think about what it might have been like for all the American soldiers that were here during the Vietnam War" he said. "Everything is on offer here, and it is the sort of place where someone who wanted to could easily disappear" he added.

Above: No prizes for guessing whats on sale at the 'Go Go Bar' ...

Below: Neon signs promise that there is something for everyone in downtown Saigon - even religion!

Above:"Nikki and I were completely struck when we came across this hotel, and could easily imagine, some 30 years ago, when American G.I.'s with their cigarettes and zippo lighters, would rent a room and a girl, after a long tour of duty on the battlefields" said Ray

Spotting that there was a circus in town, Ray and Nikki were intrigued as traditional circuses are a rapidly fading source of entertainment in the West. They decided to go along one evening. "Sitting in the huge big top was rather embarrasing as there were only a handful of Vietnamese people - and us - who had turned up, leaving massive sections of the arena empty" said Nikki. "The circus performers easily outnumbered the audience, and being a performer myself, I really felt for them having to put on a show for such a small number of people" she empathised.

Above: "The circus is in town!" - Ray and Nikki were tempted to enter the big top, along with a handful of city dwellers

Nikki had mixed feelings watching the performance. "The acrobats were amazing and bent themselves into positions that seemed impossible for a human being, and speaking as someone who is practising yoga, this made me very humble - I realised that I still have a long way to go" she said. "By contrast, I was sickened by watching the circus animals, including dogs, monkeys and elephants dressed up in preposterous outfits to look human and trained to perform a variety of tricks" she added. "In the UK, I believe that the use of animals in circuses was banned some time ago and I can understand why, as I feel it is very inhumane and sad to see animals manipulated in this way" she told me.

Above: Despite a poor attendance, the highly talented Vietnamese acrobats put on a great show

Ray and Nikki had chosen HCMC as their first port of call in Vietnam, thinking it would be the best place to get an orientation to the country and discover more about its recent history, before venturing further afield. "I suppose like many visitors to Vietnam, we were particularly interested to understand more about the war between the North and South, and the subsequent unification into one independent state" Ray told me.

First on their list of places to investigate for some clues was the Reunification Palace.

Above: Nikki enters the grounds of the Reunification Palace, hoping to gain some knowledge and insight into the recent history of Vietnam

This building was formerly South Vietnam's Presidential Palace and it is a restored five-floor time warp to the sixties, left largely untouched from the day before Saigon fell to the North. On April 30th 1975, the war ended when Tank 843, now parked outside, crashed through the gates.

Above: Tank 843 is now parked outside and (inset) the soldiers who drove it through the gates in 1975, leading to the fall of Saigon, and the end of the divided Vietnam

"What was most interesting to me was learning how the leaders of South Vietnam lived in the Palace, five metres undergound, in a labyrinth of specially strengthened bunkers and tunnels during the years of conflict, and how they monitored developments from there" said Ray. "Things have been left just the way they were when Saigon fell, which is really spooky, but this helped me and Nikki to understand more about the war itself" he added.

Above and below: Ray and Nikki found the the labyrinth of underground tunnels and war rooms absolutely fascinating

Having started to build their historical picture, Ray and Nikki visited the War Remnants Museum, which was opened in September 1975 and is largely there to study, collect, preserve and display exhibits on war crimes and aftermaths caused by foregin aggression to Vietnamese people. "As we have sought to find answers to our own questions about America's involvement in the war, it has become increasingly obvious that their presence caused death and destruction on a horrific scale, way beyond anything that could be justified" said Ray. "Its amazing that America is now Vietnam's principal trading partner" he added cynically.

For the record, it is worth understanding what led to the war taking place. During the late 1950's, the South Vietnamese government's repressive treatment of its own community led to rural unrest and an increase in communist-led guerilla activities. In 1960, the southern based guerillas formed an alliance under the National Liberation Front of Viet Cong (referred to as the 'VC' by the Americans).

During the early 1960's, the US began to increase its military presence in South Vietnam, ostensibly to stem the threat of the continuing expansion of communism. The escalation of VC activities, as well as the infiltration of North Vietnamese troops in 1964, led to the beginning of the Vietnam War.

Above: This picture, on display in the War Remnants Museum, taken on 8th March 1965, shows the first US combat troops to enter Vietnam arriving in Danang, located near the 17th Parallel, which divided the northern and southern parts of the country

Inside the Museum, photographs depict the horrors and details of the war. Along with these photos are gruesome displays documenting the effects of 'Agent Orange', napalm and other weapons of mass destruction deployed by the Americans. "It is worth remembering that the Museum is run by a communist state, and therefore could be considered to be one sided" said Ray. "But despite this consideration, we were still appalled to discover the effects of American aggression, and it has made us think differently about the current situation in Iraq" he added. "We saw some information about civilian protests in Vietnam and in America, against US military actions, which has helped me to understand in retrospect how strongly people felt at the time" said Nikki.

Above: This image, taken on 8th June 1972 in Trang Bang, South Vietnam, is now famous throughout the world. It shows innocent civilian victims of a US napalm attack

Below: This picture, one of the most gruesome that Ray and Nikki saw, shows an American soldier smirking at the charred remains of a VC soldier, burned to death by a napalm bomb

Most American ground troops were withdrawn from combat by mid 1971, when the US conducted heavy bombing raids in Cambodia on the Ho Chi Minh trail - a crucial North Vietnamese supply line. In 1972, secret peace negotiations led by the US Secretary of State, Henry Kissinger, took place and a peace settlement was signed in Paris on 27th January 1973.

Fighting continued between the internal factions until April 30th 1975, when South Vietnam surrendered to the communists, ending a war that claimed the lives of 1.3 million Vietnamese and 58,000 Americans.

On 2nd July 1976, the Socialist Republic of Vietnam was declared.

Above: Another photograph on display in the Museum, showing American soldiers honouring some of their dead comrades. For those readers that are interested, and have the stomach for it, more of the pictures that are displayed in the Museum can be found at the following web site: War Remnants Museum Photographs

After totally immersing themselves in unravelling the story of the war in Vietnam, our two travellers were ready for some relaxation. They also wanted a chance to reflect on their new understanding of the country they were visiting, and what has led to the incredible renaissance it is now going through. "Earlier in the week, we had been to see The Grand Hotel and decided that we would spend a day hanging out at their pool" said Nikki. "We also decided to review our travel plans as, originally, we had intended to travel from the south to the north, finishing up in Hanoi, the capital after a few weeks. However, I made contact with someone working for The David Glass (Theatre) Ensemble, in Hanoi, who invited us to attend a performance there much sooner" she added.

Ray and Nikki decided to accept the offer and booked flights immediately. "One of the great joys of travelling is that we can impulsively decide to change our plans if we feel like it, giving us a real sense of immediacy and freedom" Nikki told me. 

Above: Ray relaxes on a sunlounger at the wonderful Grand Hotel in Saigon - this experience can be yours for the bargain price of $2 a day and has been added to Ray and Nikki's book of "Bargain luxury treats for budget travellers!"

Below: Later that evening, a cold beer in this trendy Saigon nightspot brought Ray and Nikki's day of relaxation to an end

Editors Note: For those of you who read our last issue, Cambodia Uncovered (Part 2), you may remember that we invited you to submit a caption to accompany the photograph of Nikki (below). Our thanks to those readers who have sent in captions so far, and a reminder to those of you working on your captions, that the deadline for all entries is: 12th October 2006.

Above: Hurry up and send in your captions - I can't keep still much longer!

Readers Lives

Appearing as a new section from time to time in The Daily Lama, we hope to include stories that you, our readers, would like to share with the rest of The Daily Lama community around the world. Are you involved in a project that you would like people to know about? Have you, or anyone you know achieved something recently that you are really proud of? Do you have any good news to share with the world? If you have, please send us brief details by email and one of our journalists will contact you. Please bear in mind that we may not be able to respond to all emails we receive, but we will do our best!

Finally, Ray now has a mobile telephone in Vietnam. For those of you that receive emails from us, please check Ray and Nikki's new contact details at the bottom. They have told us that they are delighted to receive calls from family and friends.

Our next issue will include coverage of Ray and Nikki's visit to Hanoi, Vietnam's capital city.

AMBER SOLAIRE AND MOZZIE BYTE

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