Hanoi: September 2006

In our latest issue, Me So Fit, our Health and Fitness Correspondent, catches up with Ray and Nikki in Vietnam's capital - the charming, bustling Northern City of Hanoi, after their recent visit to Ho Chi Minh City. We also reveal the winner of our last caption competition, for the photograph of Nikki in Cambodia Uncovered (Part 2).

Readers who have seen the last issue of The Daily Lama (Saigon - 30 Years On) may already know that Ray and Nikki decided to alter their travel plans in Veitnam during their visit to Saigon. "We had originally planned to work our way north from Saigon, visiting most of the major towns and cities along the coast of the South China Sea, ending up in Hanoi" said Nikki. "A conversation on the telephone with someone from the David Glass Ensemble made us change this plan" she added.

Above: Change of plan! Ray and Nikki decide to head north to Hanoi

Nikki came across the David Glass Ensemble (a theatre company) whilst in England and discovered they were doing some really interesting work in Vietnam, with government funding, using theatre to raise awareness in the community about local issues. "Since I left England, I was interested to find out more about their work and see if there might be opportunities for me to participate in some way" she added. "When we reached Saigon, I called them in Hanoi and someone suggested that Ray and I attend a special performance that weekend - a collection of short plays performed by actors from all over Asia" she recalled. "We thought it was a great opportunity to meet some creative people and because the cost was relatively low, we decided to fly up there" said Nikki.

Above: Like most Asian countries, more and more people in Vietnam want to travel and the growth in budget airline services has been phenomenal. "We were able to fly to Hanoi for around fifty pounds each" said a very happy Ray

Checking in at the airport in Saigon, what should have been a very uneventful experience became a potential disaster as Nikki was unexpectedly apprehended by security guards. "For some reason, I was stopped as I went through security at check-in and was told to empty my bags" she recalled. "They pointed out that I had concealed an offensive weapon in my backpack, and I quickly realised that they were referring to my vegetable peeler!" said a slightly embarrassed Nikki. "Of course, it had to be confiscated, so after much upset, I reluctantly gave it up" she told me.

Above: "Ma'am - Put down your vegetable peeler and slowly step away from the desk!" - Nikki parts company with her favourite travelling accessory

During the flight to Hanoi, after an hour or so in the air, our travelling pair were in great spirits. "We were very excited" said Ray. "In Ho Chi Minh City, the weather had been excellent and we had no reason to believe it was going to be any different in Hanoi, so we were looking forward to exploring it in the glorious Vietnamese sunshine" he recalled.

Above: Ray and Nikki shake with excitement as they anticipate their arrival into sunny Hanoi

However, all of this was about to change, as the aircraft reached the Hanoi area and the Captain gave the passengers the customary announcement about the local weather. "The Captain informed us that there was heavy rain in Hanoi and our hearts sank" said Ray. "When we landed, our worst fears were confirmed as we looked out of the window" he added. "I don't think Nikki was as bothered as me - coming from the north of England, she likes a bit of rain!" he said.

Above: The weather in Hanoi was not what Ray and Nikki expected

Below: Shaking excitement quickly changes to damp dissapointment as Ray and Nikki land at Hanoi Airport

Fortunately for Ray and Nikki, the poor weather situation changed quite quickly. "It had more or less stopped by the time we had found a decent guesthouse, so we quickly dumped our stuff and went outside to make the most of the sunshine while it lasted" said Nikki. "As we took our first walk around the city, we could tell we were going to really enjoy our time here, as the place had a great vibe, with much softer, less pushy people than in Saigon" she added.

Above: "Where are we again?" - Nikki can't quite put her finger on it

Hanoi is a city of timeless grace. It lay in a deep slumber after Vietnam's partition in 1954, until the effects of economic reforms began to kick in four decades later. The city and its inhabitants survived American bombs during the war, to emerge relatively unscathed in the early 1990's as a superb example of a French colonial city. For an overview of Hanoi, you can find out more at Wikipedia.

During their stay in Hanoi, Ray and Nikki chose to stay in the 'Old Quarter', so called because it has been a cauldron of commerce for over 800 years, and has lots of narrow winding streets, markets and cafes. "We were very lucky this time with our room as we managed to find somewhere that was virtually brand new, with free wireless Internet, which made Ray very happy" said Nikki. "And it included free breakfast, for the bargain price of six pounds a night" added a delighted Ray.

Above: Nikki takes advantage of the free wireless Internet in their huge, clean room and calls home. Now experienced travellers, Ray and Nikki know there are some great bargains to be had if you know where to look! 

Below: The view from the balcony outside their room is typical of the many winding backstreets of Hanoi's Old Quarter

Ray and Nikki's guesthouse was located quite close to St. Joseph Cathedral, a beautiful Roman Catholic church, which is a popular place for locals to congregate. "Waking to the sound of the church bells ringing out was a wonderful experience every morning" said Nikki. "And there was a mass every day, during which we could hear the harmonic sounds of the choir, which was a real treat" she added. "It was quite bizarre seeing this in the middle of Asia though, as the building would probably have looked more at home in Medieval Europe" said Ray.

Above: Our travelling pair were woken every day by the sound of church bells and enjoyed the buzz around the Cathedral

Within earshot of St, Joseph's, they discovered the Moca Cafe - a very well established and popular place where travellers hang out, and where you can get one of the best cups of coffee in town. "We love finding good coffee, which is not always easy to come across in some parts of Vietnam, so it was an instant hit with us" said Ray.

It was during one of their visits to the Moca Cafe when Ray and Nikki met Darren (from the USA) and Rachel (from Australia), two fellow travellers who they made a really good connection with and who became instant companions during their stay. "Sometimes, we meet people who we get on really well with and who add to our experience of travelling, and Darren and Rachel are two of the best" said Nikki.

Above: Nikki enjoys chatting with Darren (left) and Rachel (right). Ray and Nikki plan to visit Rachel, who lives in Melbourne, during their trip to Australia at the end of this year

Below: Ray and Darren are great guys - you can tell from the glowing orange halo's above their heads!

Wanting to get a better understanding of the culture and history of Hanoi, Ray and Nikki teamed up with Rachel, hired bicycles and headed to the Musuem of Ethnology, about 7 kilometres out of town. "This was one of the most informative and interesting museums we visited in Vietnam, and really improved our understanding of the Vietnamese people" said Ray.

Above: Back on two wheels, Ray and Nikki begin their exploration of Hanoi with a visit to the informative Museum of Ethnology

The museum is full of exhibits that depict the history of Vietnamese people and the diverse tribes, many of which still exist today. It enabled the three of them to see how the country has evolved to become the place it is today. "It was fascinating" said Nikki. "There was one exhibit of a bicycle loaded with fishing baskets from about fifty years ago, and we realised that some things have not really changed that much here, which is one of the things we actually love about this country" she added.

Above: Fifty years ago, the man who sold fishing baskets rode a bicycle loaded up like this...

Below: Some things remain the same - these bicycles were captured on film by Ray using his mobile phone whilst walking through one of the main roads in the city

Another of the museums exhibits provides visitors with a pointed critique of the country's socialist past, and is a fascinating glimpse into an era when Vietnamese life was micromanaged under an elaborate system of coupons that controlled the allocation of virtually all resources, from rice to sewing needles. Started during the war with the French from 1945-54, the 'Subsidy Economy' as it was known, was first implemented in the north, and later extended to the south after the end of Vietnam war.

"We were quite shocked to discover that the communist regime were operating a rationing sytem until the mid 1980's, when I was in my twenties enjoying life in Britain during Margaret Thatcher's era of wealth creation for the masses" said Ray.

Above: The exhibit, called "Hanoi Life under the Subsidy Economy, 1975-1986" shows the extent of Vietnam's openness since its embrace of market reforms two decades ago and people are flocking to see it. Visitors are greeted by a recreated rice depot, showing how the Vietnamese lined up to collect their rations - Nikki looks on and tries to imagine what it might have been like

"What began as an efficient way to guarantee resources for the war effort became a harsh system that the government used to implement its central-plan, communist ideology" said a well researched Ray. "It was totally unsustainable, as it was so unfair" he added. "For example, government ministers belonged to the 'A' category and could collect 4.2 kilogrammes of meat a month, while low level state workers made do with 400 grammes" explained Ray. "Average Vietnamese people longed for impossible commodities like an electric fan or a bicycle, which today are so cheap and widely available to everyone" he added.

"We also saw how large families were often forced to live in small apartments that we would consider suitable for only one person - something that you might have seen in the poorer parts of London after the second world war, but was happening here less than 20 years ago" said a stunned Nikki. "Unfortunately, it is still the case in some parts of Hanoi" she added.

Above: This Subsidy Economy exhibit re-creates a typical apartment that a whole family may have lived in, including (in this case) breeding pigs in the tiny hallway by the kitchen, to bring in extra money. Unfortunately, some people still live in similar conditions today

"It is encouraging to see this exhibit, not only because the state is actually willing to allow examination in public of the harsh past under this system, which is quite a bold leap forward for them, but also because it serves as a great history lesson for the young Vietnamese people, half of which were born after 1975" added Ray.

For a really interesting overview of Vietnam's economic policies, reforms and outlook, including a review of life under the subsisdy economy, you can find out more at The BBC Online.

Despite its bleak history, Hanoi is a colourful, vibrant city with a youthful and optimistic population of around 4 million people. "It was quite uplifting to see the Hanoi of today, with its blend of old traditions still very much a part of everyday life and the new, more modern features you might expect to see in a capital city" said Ray. "All over town, market women still strain under 25 kilo baskets, balanced from a pole across their shouders, as they offer sugar cane and oranges, piled high in neat pyramids" he explained.

Above: A spectacular visual feast, this vibrant street in the Old Quarter is a hubbub of activity. To experience this for yourself, you can watch a short video clip of this Hanoi Street Scene

Below: There are over two million motor bikes in Hanoi - yet if you do not have one, the 'shops' come to you, as this very strong lady carrying her wares demonstrates

Above: "Those baskets may not look very heavy, but when I tried carrying one, it nearly broke my shoulder - I don't know how they manage to carry them around all day" said a dumbfounded Nikki

Below: The strong hint of French colonialism can still be seen in parts of the city - this picture could easly be depicting a 1950's street scene in Paris

Cyclos, relics of the French colonial era, once wound leisurely everywhere in Hanoi. Drivers pedalled away on their bicycles, pushing attached carriages piled high with entire families, great boxes of silk and other goods. They were once kings of the road, but the Hanoi authorities have decided they slow down traffic and are bad for the city's modern image, so the downtown area is now off limits.

Above: Cyclos, once kings of the road in Hanoi, are now mainly there for the tourists

There are many different shops in the city offering a wide variety of produce. "In Hanoi, the streets are clustered into areas that sell mainly one type of thing and many of the street names are dervied from the products sold there" said a well informed Nikki. "For example, Hang Gai, the main road adjacent to our guesthouse, was so called because it is the place to buy silk ('Hang' means merchandise and 'Gai' means silk)" she explained.

Above: Ray discovers his 'alter' image, in a street that sells hundreds of garish Buddha statues and other tacky alter goods

Below: This shop sells antique fans and lamps - Ray and Nikki were 'blown away' by the low prices, compared to what you might pay back in England

Above: Fast food Hanoi style means that you might get served within the hour, giving you plenty of time to admire the French colonial architecture

Below: Not all the shop names translate well into English; Ray and Nikki avoided this one, called My Thuat ('Thu' is pronounced Tw...)!

Hanoi is also host to some rather unusual sightings. "We saw some things that we really couldn't quite believe" said Ray. "Down a very picturesque backstreet, in one area of the city, we came across the undercarriage from an American B52 bomber, shot down over Hanoi on December 27th 1972" he continued.

"This rather large piece of machinery resides in Huu Thiep Lake, where it has been left by the government, exactly as it was 34 years ago, to remind people of the glorious defeat of the 'US Imperialists' - which led to an important change that ultimately resulted in National salvation and complete victory in the war" he told me. "This type of communist propaganda is very common here" he added.

Above: Ray and Nikki were stunned to find this beautiful lake by taking a tiny alleyway from a busy main road, as they searched for the undercarriage of the American B52 bomber shot down in 1972

Below: The undercarriage, left exactly as it was 34 years ago!

Above: Most of the residents of Hanoi do not have gardens - this man's unusual response is to place a rather large pot plant in the road outside his front door - and drivers appear quite happy to navigate around this and other similar obstacles without any problem

As mentioned earlier, it was a telephone conversation with Paul Zetter, Development Director for the David Glass Ensemble in Vietnam, that brought Ray and Nikki to Hanoi, and they finally met him after they had been in the city for a few days. "It was great to meet Paul for many reasons" said Nikki. "He is a really wonderful chap - orginally in Vietnam as a British diplomat, he has been living in Hanoi for a few years, so he has know the 'high life' here and was able to tell us much about the place" she added.

Above: Paul Zetter, now Development Director for the David Glass Ensemble, whose work involves creative projects in theatre and film making

Paul's local knowledge includes a comprehensive catalogue of some of the best eateries in Hanoi, and our travelling duo were able to visit a couple of his favourite places with him during their stay. "It was a great treat for us" said Nikki. "On our first outing, we ate some fabulous sushi for lunch and he also told us about one of Hanoi's most opulent dining experiences - the lunch buffet at the Sofitel Metropole" she added. "Towards the end of our stay, we went there and had a 'major blowout' compared with our normal 'travellers budget' meals" said a very delighted Nikki. "It was worth every penny" said Ray. "We drank some decent wine and actually ate some proper cheese for the first time since we left England - a rare commodity in these parts" he added.

Above: The Sofitel Metropole - their lunch buffet is a Five Star eating treat

The performance that Paul invited Ray and Nikki to see at the theatre in Hanoi was part of the PETA Mekong Partnership Project, whose purpose was to mobilise the arts community to intensify public debate on Gender and Sexual Health issues within the  Greater Mekong Delta region. "In my work as an actress, I have been involved in projects where the forum of theatre has been used as a device to educate people" said Nikki. "This project brought a group of actors together from all over the region for three weeks, to create some short plays and I was curious to see what they came up with" she added.

Above: Actors from Laos, Cambodia, Thailand, China and Vietnam take thier final bow after working together for three weeks to devise a series of short plays

Ray and Nikki were not the only people who were interested in the performance. "Much to our surprise, Hanoi TV sent a film crew to cover the event and we discovered there was going to be a reoprt broadcast about it the next day, during the two morning news bulletins" said Nikki. "I was invited by the film crew to be interviewed and of course, decided to accept!" she added. "Unfortunately, we never saw the news the following day, so I dont know if my comments were used, or if they ended up on the cutting room floor" she told me.

Above: "Can you give me a minute to put me lippy on?" asks Nikki, before she speaks to the citizens of Hanoi, courtesy of the local TV station

Although Ray and Nikki had a rare taste of the culinary high life during their visit, Hanoi is best known for its very tasty, and very cheap, street food. "Our guesthouse was in the same road as one of Hanoi's best kept secrets on the food front" said Ray. "It is a very small, friendly, grubby little street cafe serving a local dish known as Bun Ca (pronounced Boon Cha) which consists of fresh white, rice noodles served with delicious barbecued pork meatballs, homemade spring rolls, and plates piled high with salad greens and fresh herbs" he told me.

Above: Ray and Nikki enjoy a mouthwatering feast of Bun Ca, at their local eatery

"We loved it so much, we kept going back there for more" Ray added. "The family who live and work there really took a shine to Nikki and invited her to try her hand at making their legendary meatballs" he recalled. "I had not eaten any meat since February, when Ray and I left the Buddhist Monastery in Thailand" said Nikki. "This had mainly been for health reasons, although I had become quite accustomed to it by the time we reached Vietnam. However, as with everything in life, there is always going to be an exception, and this was definitely it. I am very happy to say that it was truly worth it" she added.

Above: Nikki feels very at home, as she tries her hand at making the legendary meatballs that had her and Ray salivating...

Below: "Oh my goodness" says Nikki, as she struggles to remember which bowls she has already put Chilli into!

Maintaining their ongoing effort to support good causes, Ray and Nikki also made time to eat at KOTO, a restaurant run as a special project to help underpriviliged kids learn how to become waiters and cooks, so they can work in the tourist industry and avoid a life of poverty. "We were visiting the Temple of Literature and KOTO is right beside it" said Ray. "We are constantly moved by the warmth and engaging nature of the people who work in these places - they have very little in material terms, but are always genuinely delighted that you have chosen to support them - whoever came up with the idea deserves a medal" he added.

Above: KOTO is an abbreviation for a project called "Know One, Teach One" and is a great way of supporting the community to improve their quality of life. Ray, Nikki and Rachel were made to feel very welcome by their waiter 'Lucky Boy'. For more information, visit their website at http://www.koto.com.au/.

Opposite KOTO, the Temple of Literature is a relaxing retreat from the busy streets of Hanoi. It was founded in 1070 by Emperor Ly Thanh Tong, who dedicated it to Confucius, in order to honour scholars and men of literary accomplishment. Vietnam's first University was established here in 1076 to educate the sons of Mandarins. "I had no idea that Confucius was an actual person, or that confuciunism was a subject of study - I always wondered where the saying came from" said a somewhat surprised Ray.

Above: The Temple of Literature was dedicated to Confucius and provides a restful retreat in the busy city...

Above: Confucius say "Man who stick neck out - can see further"...

Below: Confucius say "Man who mimic ceramic dog - get barking mad!"

Perhaps the most popular place to visit in Hanoi, for Vietnamese people and travellers alike, is the Mausoleum containing the preserved body of Ho Chi Minh. On most days, a long queue forms in the basking heat so that people can walk past his body and pay their respects. "There are many rumours going round that the body in the casket is actually a Madame Tussauds waxworks" said Ray.

"Apparently, it is shipped to Russia for three months every year, where experts re-preserve it" he told me. "Whenever we ask local people if the rumours are true, they seem quite reluctant to talk about it, as it is a criminal offence to speak about such things" he added. "It is impossible to tell as you are only allowed to linger for a few seconds - and it is also a grim reminder of what life is like under a communist regime. 37 years after his death, he is still highly revered" said Ray.

Above: Nikki outside the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum. Photography is strictly prohibited inside, but you can see an image of his body inside at Wikipedia.

Aside from exploring the sights of Hanoi and making new friends, Ray and Nikki relished the opportunity to re-establish a regular programme of exercise. As the Health and Fitness correspondent for The Daily Lama, this was something I encouraged them with, and I spent some time advising them on their options. "One of the challenges of travelling is that we are never in one place long enough to get into a routine" explained Nikki. "As we were in Hanoi for about three weeks, it meant that we had an ideal opportunity to get back into some exercise, and the city offers a perfect environment" she added.

Above: Hoa Kiem Lake, in the centre of the Old Quarter, provides the perfect environment for all forms of exercise

Following their chat with me, and inspired by another person they met during their visit to the city, they both knuckled down to some early morning jogging. I was able to put them in touch with Dan Rocovits, an American who has been living in Vietnam for a number of years and who heads up an NGO (non-government organisation) in Hanoi. "Outside of his work, I discovered that Dan is an accomplished Yoga practitioner and I was delighted duirng our visit to his office, when he invited me to join him in his exercise room to try out some yoga postures with him" said Nikki.

Above: Dan Rocovits with Nikki in his exercise room - "Now Nikki, bend your left leg and place it behind your right ear... and don't forget to smile!"

One of Hanoi's charms is that many people go to the Hoa Kiem Lake, usually from around 5.30-6.00am to exercise together before they start work. "When we heard about this, we are really intrigued" said Ray. "We got up early the next morning to see what was going on, and could hardly believe our eyes" he said. "Literally hundreds of people congregate in small groups all around the lake, to take part in aerobics, Tai Chi, lift weights, play badminton or simply meditate" he explained. "Many of them are quite old and it really inspired us to join in" he added.

Above: This Hanoi resident finds a perfect spot to sit and quietly meditate by the side of the lake

Below: Other elderly residents meditate in a different way, taking part in a group Tai Chi session. If you would like to see a short video clip of another group of ladies with a very unusual exercise routine, you can watch Ladies by the Lake.

Above: "Do not try this at home" said Ray - this chap is punching the metal lamp post during his exercise routine! If you would like to see a short video clip of a make shift roadside gym, you can watch The Roadside Gym

Below: Younger residents have their own unique forms of exercise - Ray and Nikki politely declined their invitation to join them for some breakdancing!

Nikki was also surprised by the apparent complete lack of self-consciousness that would probably prevent people back home from taking part in a scene of this nature. "Everyone joins in without regard for how they look or what anyone else thinks, which is a really fantastic sight to see" she told me. "Husbands and wives, friends and neighbours, all support each other and there is a tremendous sense of community. We felt privileged to be a part of it" she added.

Above: Many people invent their own 'interesting' exercise routines....

Below: This couple demonstrate the complete lack of self-consciousness the Vietnamese seem to have, as he gives his partner a gentle massage after exercise

Above: At the Hoa Kiem Lake, people even give their faces a good workout - these two ladies are applying a rather odd looking self-massage technique

Below: The sense of community around the lake is truly wonderful to see, with people young and old hanging around with friends and neighbours for a while before they go off into the rest of their day

Further motivation to train was provided to both Ray and Nikki when they discovered that the Hanoi branch of the 'Hash House Harriers' were inviting visitors to join them for their weekly seven kilometre run through the hills on the outskirts of the city. "I had come across the Hash when I was in Australia last year" said Ray.

"Basically, it is a well established running club that has 'chapters' in every major city in the world" he added. "Not many people are aware of it, but if you do a search in Google in your own town, you will probably find at least one chapter there" he told me. "Once you have joined, you can run with any chapter in any city you happen to find yourself in, like a huge global social club" explained Ray.

Above: Nikki stretches off as she prepares for her 6am run around the Hoa Kiem Lake. If you would like to see a short video clip of Nikki, caught on camera warming up with the locals, you can watch Nikki warms up, Hanoi style.

Below: This passer by looks on at Ray with astonishment as he stretches off his legs before his daily run

In preparation for their forthcoming run with the Hash, Ray and Nikki ventured down to the lake at 6am most mornings to run 2-3 laps - about five kilometres. "At first, it was a bit of an effort getting up so early and stretching before running" said Nikki. "But we soon got into it, and started to really enjoy it" she added.

Above "Yeah! I've done it..." - Nikki celebrates as she completes one of her morning runs with Ray

Whilst training, Ray and Nikki adopted a fairly strict food regime, concentrating on eating fruits, fresh vegetables and fish whenever possible. "We both understand about nutrition, which makes it easier for us to support each other" said Nikki. "We found a great place around the corner from our guesthouse that made fresh fruit cocktails and this became our daily breakfast for the next few days" she added. "We also found one or two places serving grilled fish and vegetables as a speciality and made the most of it" said a very healthy Ray.

Above: Breakfast time - "Mines a fruit cocktail" says Nikki. "So is mine" says Ray

Below: "Gosh, that looks good" says Ray as he prepares to tuck in to his fish and vegetables

Eventually, the day of the Hash run came around and our newly invigorated travellers eagerly made their way with the other Hash runners to the start, about 45 minutes away, in a clapped out old Russian bus. "Apart from the run itself, which was quite demanding, we had a great day meeting all sorts of different people who belong to the Hash, a mixture of ex-Pats and Vietnamese and it was great to see the social integration taking place between the different cultures" said Nikki. You can find out more about the Hash at the following web site: Hash House Harriers.

Above: Nikki arrives at the start of the Hash run, after a 45 minute journey in this clapped out Russian bus

Below: Ray mingles with the other Hash members as they all prepare to get going on the seven kilometre run

Above: The journey back to the city afterwards was a lot of fun - the oldest member (pictured with the blue tee shirt), at a ripe old age of 84, often entertains everybody with some of his legendary singing on the way home

Following the successful completion of their first run with the Hash, and with their time in Hanoi fast running out, Ray and Nikki had time for one further trip out of the city and chose to visit the Perfume Pagoda region. This is a complex of Pagodas and Buddhist shrines, built into the limestone cliffs of Huong Tich mountain, about sixty kilometres south-west of Hanoi. To get there requires a two hour drive, followed by a fifteen minute walk to a boat ramp, and then an entertaining one and a half hour ride in an 'xe om' - a long narrow row boat, powered by a Vietnamese woman.

Above: The boat ramp, which is about one and a half hours away from the Perfume Pagoda, somewhere in the hills you can see in the background

Below: Nikki goes 'local' as she dons the traditional conical straw hat - a multi purpose piece of headgear that protects wearers from both the sun and rain

Above: Ray takes his seat as his boat lady prepares for another long, exhausting row to the Pagodas

Below: There was plenty of time for Ray and Nikki to relax and enjoy the tranquil atmosphere and beautiful scenery duirng their boat ride

One of the most popular sites in the complex is the Thien Chu Pagoda (which means the Pagoda leading to Heaven). "You can definitely see the Chinese influence in the design of these ancient buildings, although some have been re-built due to the ravages of time" said Nikki. "After we had finished our visit here, we stopped for some lunch to prepare ourselves for the very steep, four kilometre hike to the main Pagoda and cave area" she added.

Above: Ray outside the Pagoda which leads to Heaven - "I am already in Heaven, travelling with Nikki" said a very romantic Ray!

Below: Ray and Nikki were tempted to take the cable car up to the caves, which were located high in the hills some four kilometres away, but opted instead to enjoy the ride on the way down

Above: It was cool inside the cave, which after a very sweaty one hour climb, gave our travelling pair a welcome break from the heat, and a few moments to quietly meditate

Below: Ray and Nikki take a moment to survey the landscape before they make their way down in the cable car and complete their last outing in Hanoi

Whilst in Hanoi, Nikki celebrated her first anniversary as a traveller since leaving England on the 4th October 2005, and marked the occasion by spending an evening with Ray, reflecting on what she had experienced during that time.

I talked to her about the year that has passed. "Even though I have been away for a year, I still feel like I am only just beginning my travels, and I am very comfortable with the idea of being nomadic" said Nikki. "Being exposed to so many different people, cultures and situations during the last 12 months has started to change me" she disclosed.

I asked her to elaborate a little for me. "Learning to live in the present moment and see things 'how they really are' (as the Buddhists say) has been one of my greatest lessons. Prior to this trip, I would sometimes look at a situation and interpret it in a particular way, according to my own map of the world. Slowly, I have started to let this approach go and am really enjoying being with, and sharing in other people's lives, without the usual need to make judgements or control the outcome of any situation" reflected Nikki.

Above: "Cheers!" Nikki celebrates with Ray on the balcony of their guesthouse, on the anniversary of her very happy and life changing year on the road

Editors Note: First, congratulations to Nikki from everyone at The Daily Lama on successfully completing your first year of travel, and providing us with some great stories along the way.

Secondly, we are pleased to announce the winner of our caption competition for the photograph of Nikki (below), which was featured in our Cambodia Uncovered (Part 2) issue.

The winning caption is:

"Wait... OK... hold still... nearly... aha, there it is! Found it, the on switch! Ray, are you sure you want me to switch her on again?"

It was written and submitted by Charlotte Fuerer-Reynolds, one of our readers in Switzerland, who judging by the photograph below, is badly in need of her prize - a free ear picking session with Nikki when she returns from her travels!

Above: Congratulations! Charlotte, our caption competition winner, cannot wait for her ear-picking session with Nikki!

We also want to extend our thanks to our runner-up, Paul Wickens in Australia, who submitted the following caption:  "You want a tattoo - in there???"

In our next issue, online in a few days, we follow Ray and Nikki to the far north of Vietnam, very close to the Chinese Border, to the beautiful mountain region of Sa Pa - an area ready made for trekking and home to a number of small, ethnic minority villages.

AMBER SOLAIRE & MOZZIE BYTE

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