Laos: April 2006

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Our cultural correspondent, Po Scard, reports on Ray and Nikki's first travel experience in Asia outside Thailand. He follows them on the slow boat along the mighty Mekong River and finds out what else they got up to during their recent trip to Laos.

With about three weeks to go before Ray and Nikki were due to start their Teach English course at Chiang Mai University (University Challenge May 2006), they had an opportunity to go across the border, north of Chiang Rai, and take a trip through Laos for about two weeks, returning with a couple of days to spare for last minute preparations. The map below shows Chiang Mai and the entry point in to Laos, a sleepy little town called Huay Xai (pronounced Hooey Zeye).

Above: Map showing Ray and Nikki's entry point into Laos and their exit point (the capital Vientiane) two weeks later

Crossing the border, although seemingly insignificant, was a big moment for our travelling duo as it marked the end of over five months in Thailand and the first opportunity to get to grips with a new and relatively unfamiliar culture. "I had heard that Laos was like Thailand used to be 25 years ago before it became Westernised" said Nikki. "I was very excited that we would be able to see a country that is a huge wilderness, with trees, mountains and jungle, and relatively inaccessible, except by boat. It was also a great opportunity to experience some indigenous culture" she added.

Above: Ray prepares to make his way across the border into Laos 

Below: Ray and Nikki were both very excited to be taking their first steps outside Thailand and into a new cultural experience

"We could tell straight away that Laos and Thailand were leagues apart in terms of sophistication" said Ray. "The border between the two countries is separated by the Mekong River and the crossing by long boat took us about 3-4 minutes" he added.

Above: The not very sophisticated ferry crossing from Thailand to Laos and (below), Ray waits for Nikki to join him in the luxury transport to Laos, on the far side of the river

Once the two of them were through the Laos border formalities on the other side of the Mekong, they made arrangements to find a room for the night and look for a boat leaving the next morning for Luang Prabang, in the centre of the country (see map above).

Above: The evening Ray and Nikki spent in Huay Xai was full of surprises - here Ray discovers that Lao men like a little snake in their whiskey!

Below: Ray also talked to some of the Buddhist monks in Huay Xai, who did not seem to mind that the local kids were selling marijuana outside their temple (Editors Note: Ray did not purchase any - honest!)

There are many ways to travel through Laos, but by far the most popular is to take a 'slow' boat along the Mekong river. This is partly because there are very few roads, so the river has always been a main transport artery, although this is changing fast.

The boats are referred to as 'slow' because they take about two days to make the trip from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang and have very uncomfortable, small wooden bench seats which make the journey feel even longer! 

Above: Ray sits and admires the view of Thailand, across the river, from the Buddhist temple in Huay Xai and contemplates two days in a very cramped, very hard wooden bench seat on the 'slow' boat

Below: One of the many 'slow' boats that make the long journey up and down the mighty Mekong river

Below: Travellers mainly choose the slow boat for the amazing scenery en route

"I loved the first day on the boat" said Nikki. "It was great being able to watch nature with nothing else to think about or do" she told me. "And I was excited about staying overnight at Pak Beng, a small village at the halfway point of our journey along the river.

Above: Nikki enjoys the peacefulness and beauty of the Mekong river as the boat slowly meanders it's way to Pak Beng for an overnight stop. 

Ray and Nikki discovered that Pak Beng is very remote and not at all like some of the places they had been used to staying. It only has electricity for 3-4 hours in the evening. And even then, there are power cuts! Rooms are basic and enable travellers to get a few hours of sleep before getting back on the boat, although Ray and Nikki were also able to stock up with a couple of baguettes to ease their hunger pangs during the day. "It was like being Martin Sheen in Apocalypse Now, going deeper and deeper into the jungle, and getting further away from civilization with every hour that passed" said Ray.

Above: After a few hours sleep in a basic room, Ray and Nikki prepare to board the boat again, but they make sure they have a good breakfast first!

Although the Mekong river is famous for its amazing scenery, after one and a half days it can become a bit boring, according to Ray. "At first, I was really impressed by what we were seeing as we looked out of the boat. But after a few hours, I could not tell the difference between one section of the river or another.  It was as if we were on a film set and someone was winding a handle with the same backdrop going round again and again" he told me. "As we have learnt from our short experience as travellers, the one thing that remains interesting are the people and this was no different in Laos" he went on.

Above and below: The Laos people who live and work on the river are fascinating and their lives have a wonderful simplicity - something we could all learn from

When Ray and Nikki finally arrived in Luang Prabang, they had planned to meet up with Dominique - a really good friend of theirs whom they met at their Buddhist retreat in Suan Mokkh in February this year (Silence is Golden). "I was expecting to see Domi welcoming us on the river bank as our boat arrived. But there was no sight of her - only the usual crowd of enthusiastic Lao tuk-tuk drivers and guest house owners who greet every traveller in an effort to boost business" said Nikki.

"I was determined to push my way through them and almost missed one of the men holding a small sign with our names written on it, which took me by surprise" she said. "I would have expected that at the airport arrivals hall but not in a remote village in the middle of nowhere" said a very amused Nikki. "It turned out that Dominique had sent him to come and get us and take us to a guest house where she had reserved a room for us. I felt like royalty and it was a brilliant treat to receive" said Nikki.

Re-united, the trio discovered that one of the bests ways to get around Luang Prabang is by bicycle, so they eagerly went to the local bike shop and rented three sets of wheels, in order to explore this wonderful town.

Above: Ray, Nikki and Dominique on their bikes

Luang Prabang is the jewel of Indochina, and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1995.  The ancient royal city is surrounded by mountains at the junction of the Mekong and its tributary, the Khan river.  In the centre of the city is Mount Phousi, with stunning views of the surrounding temples and hills. It is a city where time seems to stand still.  As part of the UNESCO plan, new buildings have been limited and development must be in keeping with this magical place. "There is a lovely feel to the place" said Ray "and the French colonial influence is very apparent. It is like a fine bottle of vintage wine slowly maturing as the years go by" he added.

Above: From a time gone by - Ray cycles past a rare 1950's Mercedes parked outside this old French colonial building

Below: This old wooden bridge is used heavily every day and was another example of the classic style of Luang Prabang. People are generally poor and very few can afford cars, so the majority get around on motorcycles and bicycles. 

Like many places that Ray and Nikki have visited, Luang Prabang has many beautiful temples, shrines and museums. Depending on the time of day, you can often hear the Buddhist monks chanting from outside, and they are very happy for visitors to come inside the temples and watch whilst it is going on.

Above: Ray and Nikki on the steps of one of Luang Prabang's many beautiful temples

Below: A Buddhist monk strikes the gong outside one of the Temples to mark the start of their evening rituals. (If you would like to see a short video of the Monks striking the gong and banging the drum, click here: Buddhist Monks)

At night, Luang Prabang really sparks into life and becomes even more magical as market traders, street vendors, food stalls and restaurants all compete for the business of travellers and locals alike.

Above: The street market on (the main) Sissavanvong Road in Luang Prabang is a wonderful sight and there are many beautiful things to be snapped up!

Above: Ray and Nikki passed this provincial school whilst riding around the outskirts of the city and wondered if they might end up teaching at a place like this after they will have completed their TEFL course in Chiang Mai

Above: This must qualify as one of the strangest things that was caught on camera in Luang Prabang and is enough to put you off chicken sandwiches for life! Ray found this distressed bird running around the streets, obviously hoping to avoid winding up on someones dinner plate for at least a few more hours!

Below: Unlike the bird above, these rice noodles, out in the sun, will definitely be on someones dinner plate as soon as they are dry

There are many areas of natural beauty surrounding the city of Luang Prabang. One of them is the magnificent Kuang Si waterfalls, about 30km to the south. Ray, Nikki and Dominique made a special trip to see the falls, situated deep in the forest. The waters, which drop about 60 metres, tumble over multi-tiered limestone formations, into several cool, turquoise-green pools that are ideal for relaxation and swimming.

Above and below: The waterfalls at Kuang Si are spectacular and provide a great place to cool down from the hot sun

"We had heard about a 'secret' pool high up into the rocks that not very many people knew about, probably because it was so difficult to reach" said Nikki. "So we decided to make the trek up there, which was very hard work in the heat, but absolutely worth the effort" she told me. "When we reached the pool, we were able to look down from our vantage point and see the cold running mountain water cascading into the pools below us, where most of the other visitors were. I decided to throw caution to the wind and leap off the top of the rocks into the icy waters below, which was very invigorating" said a breathless Nikki. 

Above: The view looking down from the waterfall's highest point - you can see pools at many levels on the way down, looking over the unprotected edge of the highest pool. (If you would like to see a short video of Nikki leaping into the water, click here: Nikki at the waterfall)

Another place well worth seeing outside the city are the caves at Pak Ou, which are about 25 kilometres away, at the confluence of the Ou and Mekong rivers. A magnificent group of caves that are only accessible by boat, about two hours upstream from the centre of Luang Prabang, the caves are noted for their impressive Buddhist and Lao style sculptures carved into the cave walls, and over 4,000 discarded Buddhist figures laid out over the floors and wall shelves. They were put there to avoid them being destroyed during timesofpolitical unrest. 

Above: The entrance to the lower cave at Pak Ou, which is only accessible via the river

Over the years, the caves have become highly venerated sanctuaries. During Lao New Year, boatloads of Luang Prabang residents make the pilgrimage up the Mekong River to the caves to wash the Buddha images and make merit.

Above: The caves are home to over 4,000 Buddha images of all shapes and sizes

Below: This eerie Buddha image appears to be standing guard at the cave entrance

Having spent a few days exploring Luang Prabang, our trio were ready to venture further north to some of the more remote parts of Laos. "We really had to think about how much money we would need as there would be no ATM's where we were headed and cash is the only way to pay for anything" said Ray. "We needed to take enough to not get caught short, but not too much that we might inadvertently become the target of bandits" added a very cautious Ray. In the end, Ray and Nikki decided to change seventy five pounds each, making them instant Laos millionaires as there are 17,000 Kips (Laos currency) to every pound.

Above: Who wants to be a millionaire? - Nikki does, at least in Kips anyway!

Following a four and a half hour journey in a wreck of a bus, in which Ray and a fellow passenger had to get out and push start it at one point, and then a further hour up river on a narrow boat, our trio eventually arrived at their destination - a small remote village on the Nam Ou river known as Muang Ngoi (pronounced Mung Noy).

Muang Ngoi is a gorgeous, sleepy village, and one of the friendliest in Laos. It is only accessible by boat, there are no roads, and the lack of motorbikes and other vehicles is refreshing to the ears and to the breath. Muang Ngoi is very basic, and has no electricity, except at night between about 18:00 and 22:00, which means that the locals' lifestyle is aligned with daylight hours.

Travellers are advised to bring a torch for getting around in the dark, and respect the locals' early bed time by not making any noise. "Having to find our way around with torches, in the village and in our room after dark, added some fun to our adventure" said Nikki. "However, listening to the horrific shrieks of a pig being slaughtered early one morning was one aspect of Laos village life that really put us off considering more of a 'back to nature' lifestyle" she added.

Above: "Main Street" Muang Ngoi - Ray wanders through the village in search of the two most precious commodities required by travellers; torch batteries and toilet rolls!

Directly in the path of the Ho Chi Minh Trail, the area was heavily bombed by the US military during the Vietnam war, and local caves were lived in to avoid the falling bombs. "I was very disturbed to hear stories about what had happened to these people during this period" Ray told me. "During the conflict, the equivalent of a half a ton of bombs were dropped for every man, woman and child in the country, which is unbelievable" he added.

Above: The village of Muang Ngoi, like many along the river, is a picture of tranquil beauty these days, having survived a torrid past

Below: There was not enough time to go further North along the Nam Ou river on this trip, which would have taken our three travellers deeper into the wilderness. Maybe they will return one day to explore further!

Having got themselves established with a base in the village, our three adventurers decided they wanted to explore some of the even more remote hill tribe villages, which meant going into uncharted territory and is only advisable with a trained guide. So they teamed up with three fellow travellers from the United States and formed a new crew of six, and went in search of someone who could accompany them.

"We were very lucky to find someone through one of the people in the village" said Ray. "Not only did he really know the area well, he also spoke good English which made things a lot easier for us. We really wanted to Kayak down river before going off into the jungle, which he was also able to arrange for us" said Ray.

Above: This sign was hanging in the 'office' of the guide who accompanied the crew, providing Ray and Nikki with further evidence of the burgeoning market opportunity for teaching English in Asia!

Above: The newly formed crew, from left to right: The boatman, Andy and his father Gary, Dominique, Sam, Ray and Nikki

As the crew made their way down river by Kayak early in the morning, they passed many interesting sights en route. "We saw farmers being towed in their boats by water buffalo and local fishermen beating the living daylights out of fish, with sticks, in an attempt to make them jump into their nets" said Ray.

Above: A local fisherman at work on the river - their techniques are very unusual!

Led by their guide, the crew eventually abandoned the kayaks and set off through the jungle and rice fields to find the first of two remote hill tribes that he had suggested they should visit. The crew could see the village from quite a distance, due to the huge billowing clouds of smoke nearby. They later discovered that this is an age old practise of burning off vegetation to clear land for growing crops. This is causing huge problems as the smoke pollutes the environment and the growing shortage of trees creates havoc with the local eco system.

Above: The first sighting of a remote hill tribe village by the crew enabled them to get to grips first hand with the environmental problems that are prevalent in different parts of the world

The crew were struck by the conditions they came across in the hill tribe village. The life inside is about as basic as you can get and certainly not like anything our travellers had experienced before. For example, in the village was a hand operated grindstone, which is used daily to crush wheat for making flour. "We tried turning the wheel and found it almost impossible" said Ray. "The hill tribe women made it look really easy - god knows how they do it" he added.

Above: The conditions in this remote hill tribe village were a real eye opener for the crew - no electricity, poor sanitation and water having to be carried from the nearest river - a million miles away from the lives the crew have been used to

Nikki was also impacted by the living conditions. "The village was very stark. Life there did not seem to be about an aesthetically beautiful envrionment but more about functional day to day living" she said.

Above: These village children may never know the privilege that some of us have in our lives. They have little or no access to education, medicine or clothing and have very little income to live off

Below: Despite their living conditions, the children display a wonderful energy and spirit and really charmed the visiting crew

The villagers extended their hospitality to the crew and the Head of the village personally invited all of them to have lunch at his house. "This was the cause of great interest and speculation amongst the hill tribe people, who quickly gathered around the outside of the house to watch the proceedings" Ray told me. "They were very generous, and we were pleased that we had brought so much of our own food that we could leave some behind. The hungry children disposed of our offering at lightning speed" he said.

Above: The hill tribe children gather around the house of the village Head to watch the crew over lunch. They seemed really curious about the crew and eager to observe and understand their ways

After lunch was over, Ray and Andy provided some impromptu entertainment for some of the children. Ray kept them amused by showing them images of themselves on his video camera, whilst Andy played tunes on his harmonica.

Above: Ray provides some amusement for the hill tribe children as he plays with the video camera. (If you would like to see a short video, click here: Andy plays the harmonica)

The crew spent the rest of the day trekking to a further hill tribe village, then made their way back to the river to pick up a long boat to take them back to their own village at Muang Ngoi. "We had a brilliant experience" said Nikki. "I particularly enjoyed the trekking and our guide was really helpful - I am glad he came with us. It was also great to make some new friends in our crew" she added.

Above: Making their way back to the river, the crew soon realised that it was not just the hill tribe people that were curious about them - this buffalo looks on with great interest as they pass by

Below: Many of the villages supplement their meagre incomes by producing whiskey from rice, using basic equipment like this. The potentially lethal substance they make is known as Lao Lao and is drunk in huge quantities by villagers

Having spent time exploring the more remote river villages and hill tribes, our trio thought that it would be a good idea to start heading back to 'civilisation' but then heard about something that made them think about a short postponement.

"By a total co-incidence, we discovered we were staying in Muang Ngoi at the same time that the village men were about to compete in an annual boat race, in which about twenty village teams take part for honours" said Ray. "The race is probably the single most important event in the sporting calender for miles around and we heard that virtually every man, woman and child from our village would be going, so we were compelled to join them and headed for Nong Kiaow, a small town about one hour down river" he added.

Above: The boats taking villagers to Nong Kiaow for the big race day were packed as everyone rushed to spectate at this prestigious event

"The atmosphere on the cramped boat going to Nong Kiaow was electric" said a very excited Nikki. "The children were singing songs of encouragement to their oarsmen fathers and everyone was clapping and drumming rhythmically on the sides of the boat. I was encouraged to join in, and all I could think of to sing was a round of Rose Rose, which is an old English song!" she told me.

Above: People came to Nong Kiaow, host to the great boat race, in which teams from over 20 villages in the region compete in a series of heats to get into and win the final race

Below: Spectators gather on the main bridge and wait anxiously as their teams make their final preparations before the heats begin

Eventually, the starter called the first two boats to the bridge and the heats began. The crowds loved it as their village men gave their all to try and reach the next stage. Ray, Nikki and Dominique were obviously supporting Muang Ngoi, who had won the championship for the last two years running, making them a bit like the 'Chelsea' of northern Laos. "We were very confident our team would get the right result" said Ray. "Besides, they looked so professional in their luminous green kit" added Nikki.

Above: "And they're off!" The starter fires the gun and the first two teams go full steam ahead to try and win their heat. (If you would like to see a short video of the race, click here: Boat Race at Nong Kiaow).

Below: One of the village boat teams make their way to the start line, under the bridge

Above: At the end of the day, Nikki makes a new friend at the boat race as he admires her photographic skills

Muang Ngoi just missed out on getting into the final this year, but it was still a great day for everybody!

Editors Note: Great coverage Po, although I do not think I shall be swapping my weekend Martini's for the snake whiskey! Readers can follow the rest of the story of Ray, Nikki and Dominiques adventure in Laos, in "Following the Mekong Trail (Part Two)" which will be published in a couple of days.

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AMBER SOLAIRE

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